Make the Beautiful Drutozlot Mosaic Crochet Cowl in Two Colors

Updated: 11 November 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)

This mosaic crochet cowl was made for one very special day, my first mosaic crochet workshop. I taught it at Drutozlot, a Polish yarn festival, to a group of crocheters who came to learn mosaic.

Teaching was a big step for me, and I’d jump at the chance to do it again. I needed one small project that shows everything mosaic can do, and that’s exactly what the Drutozlot Cowl became.

Two colors, a squishy ribbing on both edges and bold geometric shapes all the way around. And here’s the best part, you already know every stitch in it.

Jump to the free Drutozlot Cowl pattern and video tutorial. Want it as one printable file? The ad-free PDF is on Etsy and Ravelry.

Join my Facebook Group and Ravelry Group to ask questions and share your work in progress. You can also follow me on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest.

How this mosaic crochet cowl works

Never tried mosaic? This mosaic crochet cowl is a great first one, because the whole secret is just one color per round.

You work back loop single crochet in the color of the round, and where the other color should show up, you chain and skip a stitch. Two rounds later you drop a double crochet into that skipped stitch, right in front of the chain, and suddenly the pattern is there.

That’s called inset mosaic, and it’s how I make all my mosaic designs. Want to practice on a small swatch first? My mosaic crochet tutorial walks you through it.

From ribbing to ribbing

The cowl starts with a ribbing strip worked in rows. You join it into a ring and then work the mosaic body in rounds along its edge.

Every ribbing row gives you one stitch for the body, so 100 rows means 100 stitches. The mosaic repeats every 10 stitches, so a wider or narrower cowl is just a matter of a few more or fewer rows.

And then comes my favorite part, a second ribbing worked sideways and joined to the body as you go. No sewing at all, and both edges match perfectly.

Yarn and colors for your mosaic crochet cowl

With mosaic, contrast is everything. I paired two merino yarns, a hand-dyed Włóczki Warmii Mirella from a Polish dyer and Malabrigo Sock in Natural, and I still recommend both.

I’m not sure both are still easy to find, so grab any soft fingering weight pair you like. A dark and a light, or a bright and a calm one, and the mosaic will really stand out.

Worried about a mountain of ends? You change color every round, but you never cut the yarn, just carry the unused color up the inside of the cowl.

Is this mosaic crochet cowl hard?

It’s an intermediate pattern, but adventurous beginners can totally do it. At the workshop everyone used stitches they already knew, single crochet, double crochet and slip stitch.

The only new thing is watching which stitch to skip. Follow the written rounds or the chart, whichever feels easier, and the video tutorial shows every step if you get stuck.

Since both yarns are merino, I wet block. I soak the cowl, lay it flat in shape and let it dry, and that’s when the mosaic gets crisp and even.

Not starting today? Pin this mosaic crochet cowl to your Pinterest board, so you can find it when you’re ready.

Free Drutozlot mosaic crochet cowl pattern

• Get the ad-free, printable PDF with the stitch chart on Etsy or Ravelry.
• Add the Drutozlot Cowl to your Ravelry queue.

Copyright 2024 – 2026 MyCrochetory. All rights reserved. This pattern is the property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern or claim it as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights and DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The cowl you make following this pattern is yours, and you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory (Sylwia Kawczyńska) as the original designer. For more information, please read my Terms page.

Materials & Tools

• Yarn: fingering weight yarn in 2 contrasting colors.
• Yarn A: Włóczki Warmii Mirella (100% merino wool; 100 g / 400 m / 437 yd), about 280 m (306 yd).
• Yarn B: Malabrigo Sock (100% merino wool; 100 g / 400 m / 437 yd), colorway Natural, about 200 m (219 yd).
• Hook: 3.5 mm (US E/4). Adjust the hook size if necessary to obtain the correct gauge.
• Stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors.

Level

Intermediate. Mosaic crochet in rounds.

Size after blocking

One size, adjustable: about 53 cm (21″) around, so 26.5 cm (10.5″) wide laid flat (25 cm / 10″ flat at the ribbing), and 36 cm (14″) high.

Gauge after blocking

19 sts and 20 rounds = 10 cm (4″) in the mosaic pattern. Block your swatch like you will block your cowl.

Notes

• The pattern uses US terms. Ribbing 1 is worked in rows. The main body is worked in joined rounds, and Ribbing 2 is worked in rows and joined to the body as you go.
• The mosaic body is a multiple of 10 sts. Each row of Ribbing 1 gives 1 st, so make Ribbing 1 a multiple of 10 rows to change the size. For a taller cowl, work more repeats of Rounds 2–19.
• A st followed by a number (BLsc3) means 1 st in each of the next 3 sts.
• Change color after every round. Carry the yarn you don’t use up the inside, so you don’t have to cut it.
• BLmosaicdc is always worked in front of the ch-2 of the previous round. That chain stays behind it and is never worked.
• You can follow the chart or the written rounds. Each round has 100 sts, counting each ch-2 sp as 1 st.
• Instructions in [ ] are worked as many times as indicated. The numbers in ( ) are the stitch counts.

How to read the mosaic chart

• Read the chart from bottom to top. Each row of squares is 1 round, read from right to left.
• Each square is 1 st. A square in the color of the round is a BLsc (or a BLmosaicdc over a ch-2 sp).
• A square in the other color is a ch2, sk 1 st. The BLmosaicdc is worked into that skipped st two rounds later.

Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms)

• ch – chain
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sl st – slip stitch
• sc – single crochet
• BLsc – back loop single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLdc – back loop double crochet
• yo – yarn over
• sk – skip
• sp – space
• rep – repeat
• beg – beginning
• BLmosaicdc – back loop mosaic dc. Work a BLdc in the skipped st of the same color 2 rounds below, in front of the ch-2 sp.

Drutozlot mosaic crochet cowl video tutorial

Want to see it done? This video tutorial shows how to start the cowl, work the mosaic rounds, change colors and finish with the ribbing. To see it, please turn off any ad blocker you have running.

Drutozlot Cowl pattern

Read all Notes before you start.

Ribbing 1

With a 3.5 mm hook and Yarn A, ch9.

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in first st, BLsc in each st across until 1 st remains, sc in last st. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 3 – 100: Repeat Row 2 (98 more times), or until you have any multiple of 10 rows. (8 sts)

Join the last row to the first row with sl sts, then ch1.

Main body

Round 1: (Yarn A) sc in the end of each row of Ribbing 1 around (1 sc per row), sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 2: (Yarn B) ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), BLsc1 in first st, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 3: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 4: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 5: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 6: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Don’t change yarn here. (100 sts)

Round 7: with Yarn B ch1, BLsc1, change to Yarn A, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, [ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 8: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, [BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 9: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 10: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 11: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 12: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 13: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 14: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 15: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc3, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Don’t change yarn here. (100 sts)

Round 16: with Yarn A ch1, BLsc1, change to Yarn B, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, [ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 17: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st, [BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1 st] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Round 18: (Yarn B) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1 st, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn A in final st. (100 sts)

Round 19: (Yarn A) ch1, BLsc1 in first st, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1] rep around until the first st of the round, sl st in first st to close the round. Change to Yarn B in final st. (100 sts)

Rounds 20 – 55: Repeat Rounds 2–19 two more times, or until the cowl is as tall as you like. (100 sts)

Ribbing 2

Ribbing 2 is worked in rows and joined to the main body as you go. Continue with Yarn A and the 3.5 mm hook.

Row 1: ch9, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch back to the main body. Join to the next st of the main body with a sl st, sl st in the next st of the main body (2 sl sts to join), ch1. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 2: sk the ch1 and the 2 sl sts, BLsc in each st across until 1 st remains, sc in last st. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 3: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in first st, BLsc in each st across. Join to the next st of the main body with a sl st, sl st in the next st (2 sl sts to join), ch1. Turn. (8 sts)

Next rows: Repeat Rows 2–3 until the ribbing is joined all around the main body (100 rows). Join the last row to the first row with sl sts. (8 sts)

Fasten off, weave in all ends and block your cowl.

If you have any suggestions or have found a mistake, please email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.

Finished your Drutozlot Cowl? I’d love to see your colors, so share it on Instagram with #mycrochetory and tag @mycrochetory.

Stuck on a round? Ask in my Facebook Group or Ravelry Group, or email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.

More mosaic crochet patterns

Caught the mosaic bug? These patterns of mine use the same technique.

• Namari Mosaic Cowl. Another two-color mosaic cowl, worked in the round with an attached ribbing.
• Duende Cowl. A mosaic cowl in plum and off white that matches the Duende Hat.
• Duende Hat. A mosaic beanie with the same sideways ribbing joined at the end.
• Thassos Blanket. Black and white mosaic geometry on a big scale.
• Want even more? See my roundup of 10 free mosaic crochet patterns.

More crochet cowl patterns

Want another cowl on your hook? Here are a few more of mine, each with a different stitch.

• Herringbone Cowl. A warm neck warmer in herringbone stitch.
• Ombre Moss Stitch Cowl. Soft moss stitch with a gentle color fade.
• Greus Cowl. An asymmetric cowl in moss stitch, built from a triangle and a parallelogram.
• Lilac Mobius Cowl. A moebius cowl with a twist, named after its lilac yarn.

Mosaic crochet cowl FAQ

Is this mosaic crochet cowl good for a first mosaic project?

Yes. I designed it for a beginner mosaic workshop, so it uses only basic stitches and one small repeat, and the chart shows every round.

Can I follow only the chart?

Yes. The chart shows Rounds 1 to 19, so you can follow it on its own or keep it next to the written rounds to check your skipped stitches.

Can I make this mosaic crochet cowl taller or wider?

Yes. For a taller cowl, work more repeats of Rounds 2 to 19, and for a wider one, add Ribbing 1 rows in multiples of 10. Plan a bit more yarn for both.