The cold winter is here, and to help you stay warm all season long allow me to introduce you my new crochet pattern: the Duende Hat.
I hope you will like my mosaic crochet hat pattern and will proudly wear it, or give it as a gift to someone you love.
Scroll down to see the Duende Hat free crochet hat pattern or you may choose to purchase the ad-free, printable PDF crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry.
My Duende Hat is a prefect accessory for your all season wardrobe and it looks way more complicated than it is.
This would make a great project for people who are interested in learning how to crochet a hat and how to work mosaic crochet as it is quite easy to make and the results are superb.
This crochet hat is a comfortable beanie that can easily be adjusted to fit any head. Work for more rounds to make it a slouchy hat or fewer round for more fitted cap.
My Duende Hat is made crocheting in the round from the bottop up.
First, the brim is made with single crochet stitches worked in the back loops only to create the ribbed effect. Next, the short ends were sewed together to form the ribbed band.
Please see my detailed step-by-step tutorial HERE to see how to make a perfect crochet ribbing !
After that, this crochet hat is worked in one continuous spiral of single crochet and special mosaic stitches until crown decreases.
Love for mosaic crochet is growing strong.
The ease of mosaic crochet is that you’re only working one color at a time. Moreover, this colorwork technique creates much more flexible, with more drape than tapestry crochet or intarsia crochet colorwork often is.
Duende Crochet Hat is dedicated to an intermediate or adventurous beginner wanting to try out mosaic crochet for the first time.
That’s why I have included heavy step-by-step picture tutorial at the end of the pattern to show you how this colorwork works.
I like the way this mosaic colorwork technique creates a fabulous texture that looks like knit. If you liked my Duende Crochet Hat you might also like my other pattern using the mosaic crochet.
I chose to use DROPS Nord yarn – a beautiful mix of Alpaca, wool and polyamide. Because this yarn has been spun like a traditional 4-ply sock yarn it’s not only soft and warm but also strong and shape retaining.
Available in many beautiful colors that are perfect for striped crochet projects or Intarsia crochet and Fair Isle patterns.
As always, the yarn listed is just a suggestion! I love Drops Nord and highly recommend it, but you can substitute any yarn that you can get gauge with and like the fabric created!
If you want to share your wips and finished hat on social media, please, use hashtag #mycrochetory or #duendehat. I love to see your finished project!
DUENDE HAT FREE PATTERN
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2020 – 2022 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The crochet hat you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.
Materials & Tools:
- Yarn DROPS Nord 50g = 170 m, 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool, in 2 different colours:
Yarn A off white(01)
Yarn B plum(17),
- Hook size 2.5mm and 3.5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
- Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends),
- Stitch marker.
Adult small(Adult medium, Adult large)
Finished brim circumference:
23(25, 25)cm/ 9(10, 10)”
Gauge after blocking:
16 sts and 18 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) using 3.5mm hook with single crochet.
If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.
Before you measure, please take the time to wash and block your swatch in the same manner that you will wash and block your hat.
- The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- The hat, after the brim, is worked in one continuous spiral of single crochet and BLmosaicdc stitches.
- Pattern for mosaic body is multiple of 7 stitches. To increase the width of the brim, increase the number of rows. To decrease the width of the brim, decrease the number of rows.
- To increase the height of the hat, increase the number of mosaic rounds. To decrease the height of the hat, decrease the number of mosaic rounds.
- Stitch marker placement: When instructed to place your marker, place on the last st worked unless otherwise instructed. It should lie on a stitch, not between stitches.
- STITCHES: When in the instructions you have a stitch followed by a number, eg sc14, this means you have to work 1sc stitch into each of the next 14 sts. When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 2sc, this this means you have to work 2 sc stitches into the next (same) stitch.
- When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Mosaic Pattern Notes:
- You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
- Color is changed after every one round.
- You can avoid weaving in all those ends by not cutting the yarn when you finish a round. Simply carry the other color along the inside and pick it back up with your hook when you need to use it again.
How to read the Mosaic Chart:
- Chart is read from bottom to top and each row of squares represents 1 round.
- All rounds are read from right to left.
- Each square of the chart represents 1 stitch or 1 skipped stitch.
- Whenever you see a square of color dedicated to that round, work single crochet.
- Whenever you see a square of different color in that round, skip that stitch (make chain). To prevent puckering, make the same number of chain as the number of skipped sts plus ch1. For example, for 1 skipped st – make ch2, for 2 skipped sts – make ch3, for 3 skipped sts – make ch4, etc.
- Pay special attention to number of skipped stitches.
- BLmosaicdc will be worked in these skipped sts from two rounds below. Remember, BLmosaicdc are always worked in front of chains of previous round.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):
ch(s) – chain(s) stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
BOR – beginning of the row/round
sc(s) – single crochet
dc(s) – double crochet
BLsc – back loop only single crochet
BLdc – back loop only double crochet
slst – slip stitch
yo – yarn over
BLmosaicdc (back loop only mosaic double crochet) – work regular BLdc in unworked/skipped st of the same color two rounds below in front of chain space (in front of work). These chains will stay behind BLmosaicdc and will stay unworked.
sc2tog (single crochet 2 together) – insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in next indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, pull through 3 loops on hook.
BLsc2tog – back loop only single crochet 2 together
M – marker
PM – place marker
sp – space
sk – skip
beg – beginning
prev – previous
RS – right ride
WS – wrong side
With 2.5mm hook and Yarn A, ch8(ch9, ch9).
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.
You should have 6(7, 7, 8, 8)sc stitches in each row.
Repeat Row 2 75(82, 89) times for a total of 77(84, 91) rows.
After your last repeat of row 2 join the first and the last row together.
Don’t break the yarn.
With 3.5mm hook
Next row (RS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout) sc in first brim’s row, place BOR marker, sc in each brim’s rows until BOR. Don’t join the round.
HOW TO START YOUR CROCHET PROJECT WITH A CROCHET RIBBING
Mosaic body is worked in one continuous spiral. Don’t join the rounds.
With RS facing you.
Round 1 (yarn A): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc in each st around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.
Round 2 (yarn B): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc3, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLsc4, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until one st remain before BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.
Round 3 (yarn A): BLsc in one st before BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1 (in unworked st of same color two rounds below, in front of chains – here and throughout), BLsc1, [BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, Blsc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.
Round 4 (yarn B): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.
Round 5 (yarn A): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.
Round 6 (yarn B): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until one st remain before BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.
Round 7 (yarn A): BLsc in one st before BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, [BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.
Round 8 (yarn B): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until one st remain before BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.
Repeat Rounds 3 – 8 until round 27(31, 31) ending on repeat of Round 3 or Round 5 or Round 7 according to your size.
Next Round (with Yarn B): start this round as you would start your next round (after repeat of round 3 or round 5 or round 7) working BLsc in every st and BLmosaicdc in every unworked st two rounds below around until BOR.
Round 1: BLsc2tog (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc5, [BLsc2tog, sc5] around until BOR. Don’t join the round here and throughout.
Round 2: BLsc2tog (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc4, [BLsc2tog, sc4] around until BOR.
Round 3: BLsc2tog (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc3, [BLsc2tog, sc3] around until BOR.
Round 4: BLsc2tog (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc2, [BLsc2tog, sc2] around until BOR.
Round 5: BLsc2tog (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, [BLsc2tog, sc1] around until BOR.
Round 6: BLsc2tog (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc2tog around until BOR, slst in BOR.
Fasten off and leave long end for sewing. Now, close the hole of your hat using your favourite method or follow my tutorial below.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your beanie to measurements.
If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at firstname.lastname@example.org
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CLOSING THE HAT
Take a loose end and thread in through a tapestry needle and go up underneath the first stitch and pull it.
Then, go back in under the next stitch and pull through. Don’t tighten up yet and keep working around until you get back where you started.
Now tighten up.
After that, turn your hat inside out and sew back and forth through the center area few times.
Fasten off yarn and ta-da, done!
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