Free Mosaic Crochet Sweater Pattern With a Cropped Fit

Updated: 5 October 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)

This mosaic crochet sweater pattern was a big first for me, and I’m still kind of proud of how it turned out! It all started with my Pocket Raglan Sweater. Once I’d made that one, I couldn’t stop thinking about top-down raglans, and I wanted to try something new for the next one. So I added mosaic crochet, a technique I had never used in a design before.

The result is this cropped sweater in berry red, with a band of mosaic at the hem and cuffs. It’s worked from the top down and completely seamless. And if cropped isn’t your style, you can easily make it longer.

Below, I show you how the sweater is made, how the mosaic band works and how to pick your size. The free pattern comes after that, so just scroll down and grab your hook!

Prefer an ad-free printable PDF with the short rows picture tutorial? You can get it on Etsy or Ravelry.

Love this sweater but no time to start right now? Save this pin to your Pinterest board, so you can find it fast when you’re ready to start.

How this top-down crochet sweater is made

Hate sewing pieces together? Good news, because this crochet sweater is made from the top down in one piece, with no seams to sew at the end!

You start at the neck with a ribbed band. From there, you work your way down the yoke and add stitches along the four raglan lines, so the sweater gets a little wider with every round.

I also added a few short rows at the back, which lift the back neck a bit and help the sweater sit nicely on your shoulders.

Once the yoke is big enough, you split it into the body and the two sleeves. Then you simply keep going down in rounds of half double crochet between stitches.

And because you’re working top-down, you can slip the sweater on at any time and see how it fits. The ribbed hem and cuffs come last, and you attach them to the edge as you go, so they’re finished the moment you crochet the last stitch.

One reader once told me she had never made clothes, just because she didn’t want to sew pieces together. If that sounds like you too, this sweater could be your very first handmade sweater.

How the mosaic band works

I put the mosaic band only at the hem and on each cuff, and that makes this sweater a great first mosaic project. Everywhere else, you crochet plain half double crochet between stitches.

So you only work mosaic for 16 rounds at a time, which is long enough to learn the technique and short enough to finish before you get tired of counting.

Inside the band, you change color after every 2 rounds, and the pattern repeats every 4 stitches. In some rounds, you skip stitches and chain over them.

Then two rounds later, you come back and fill those spots with a mosaic double crochet, worked in front of the chains. That’s how the little cream and berry shapes appear.

Sounds new? Don’t worry. The chart shows all 16 rounds, and the photo tutorial below the pattern shows every single one, step by step, so you can check your work as you go.

Which yarn to use for your mosaic crochet sweater

Ready to pick your yarn? For this mosaic crochet sweater, you need a fingering weight yarn in two colors, one for the main sweater and one for the mosaic band.

I made mine in a berry red light fingering yarn, a soft mix of merino, alpaca and silk. Sadly, it isn’t sold anymore, but that’s no problem at all, because any fingering weight yarn that matches the gauge will work.

Now, the main color is where most of your yarn goes. Depending on your size, you’ll need about 1,000 to 1,725 yards of it.

The contrast color is much easier, because it only goes into the mosaic band. About 100 to 145 yards is enough for any size, so this is a great moment to use up that pretty leftover skein in your stash! Just make sure it really stands out from your main color, so the mosaic shapes pop.

One more thing before you jump in. Make a swatch with your 3 mm hook and check that you get 20 stitches and 19 rows in 4 inches of half double crochet between stitches. Then wash and block it, just like you’ll do with your finished sweater.

It takes a little time, I know, but it’s the best way to make sure your sweater fits the way you want.

How to pick your size

Picking your size for this crochet sweater takes just a tape measure and a minute of your time. It comes in 8 sizes, with a finished bust of 33 to 47 inches, and it’s designed with 2 inches of positive ease.

So here’s what you do. Measure around the fullest part of your bust, add 2 inches, and choose the size whose finished bust is closest to that number.

Those 2 extra inches make the sweater a little roomier than your body, so it feels comfy and never tight.

Still not sure? Look at mine. The sweater in my photos is a size 5, with a 41-inch bust, worn on a 39-inch bust.

And if you want to check more than that, the schematic in the pattern section shows other measurements too, like the sleeve width and the length from the neck to the underarm. Hold them next to a sweater you already love, and you’ll see right away how yours will fit.

How to make your sweater longer

Not a fan of cropped sweaters? No problem! To make your sweater longer, you just keep crocheting the body until it’s 3.5 inches shorter than the length you want.

Why 3.5 inches? Because the mosaic band and the ribbed hem still come after that, and together they add about that much at the bottom.

The sleeves work exactly the same way. Keep crocheting them down until they’re 3.5 inches short of the length you like, and then add the band and the cuff. So you can make long, warm sleeves for winter, or stop just below the elbow like I did.

And one little reminder from me. Every extra inch needs extra yarn, so if you’re going longer, grab a bit more of your main color before you start. Running out halfway through the hem is no fun at all!

Mosaic cropped sweater FAQ

What level is this crochet sweater pattern? I’d call it an intermediate pattern. You should already know half double crochet and feel comfortable working in rounds and following a pattern with several sizes.

Can I make it as a cardigan? Not with this pattern, sorry, because the sweater is worked in the round. But if you’d love mosaic in an open, cardigan-style piece, my Mosaic Cocoon Cardigan could be just what you’re looking for.

Is there a tutorial for the short rows? Yes! The ad-free printable PDF on Etsy and Ravelry includes a short rows picture tutorial. And here on the blog, you’ll find my photo tutorial for the mosaic band.

What if I see a small hole at the underarm? Don’t panic, it can happen in some sizes. Just close it with a few stitches when you weave in your ends, and nobody will ever know.

Is there a mosaic chart? Yes, you’ll find it in the pattern section, right above the photo tutorial. Follow the chart or the written rounds, whatever feels easier for you.

Can I sell the sweaters I make from this pattern? Of course, the sweater you make is yours to sell. Please just credit MyCrochetory as the designer. The only thing you can’t sell or share is the pattern itself.

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I’d love to see your sweater, so please share it on social media with the hashtags #mycrochetory or #mosaiccroppedsweater. Stuck somewhere? Ask me in my Facebook Group or my Ravelry Group. You can also find me on Instagram, Facebook and Pinterest.

Mosaic cropped crochet sweater free patten

• Get the ad-free printable PDF with the short rows picture tutorial on Etsy or Ravelry.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry queue here.
• Want all my mosaic designs in one place? Grab the MyCrochetory Mosaic Pattern Bundle.
• Pin it for later.

Copyright 2020–2026 MyCrochetory. All rights reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The mosaic crochet sweater you make following this pattern is yours, you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please read the Terms Page.

As a bonus in the ad-free, printable PDF, I’ve provided SHORT ROWS PICTURE TUTORIAL. If you’re a visual learner or if you just want to support my work you can purchase this crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry. Thank you and I hope you find it useful!

Materials & tools

1. Yarn: Fingering weight yarn in 2 colors. Sample made with Slavica Yarns Vesna (light fingering, 115g = 460m / 504yds, 60% SW Merino, 20% Baby Alpaca, 20% Silk), which is no longer available.
2. Main yarn: 918 (978, 1107, 1140, 1245)(1351, 1429, 1582) m / 1000 (1066, 1207, 1242, 1357)(1473, 1557, 1725) yds
3. Contrasting yarn: 92 (97, 103, 106, 113)(120, 125, 132) m / 101 (106, 112, 116, 123)(130, 136, 144) yds
4. Note that yardage may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.
5. Hook size: 2.5mm and 3mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
6. Tapestry needle (to weave in yarn ends).
7. Scissors.
8. Stitch markers.

Level

Intermediate

Sizes

1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8)

Finished measurements

Measurements given are for the finished garment. This sweater is designed to fit with 2″ [5cm] of positive ease at the bust.

To pick your best size, measure your full bust and add 2″ [5cm] ease, then pick the finished bust circumference closest to that number.

A: Bust circumference 84 (89, 94, 99, 104)(109, 114, 119.5)cm / 33 (35, 37, 39, 41)(43, 45, 47)”

B: Upper sleeve circumference 30.5 (31.5, 33, 34, 35)(38.5, 40, 42)cm / 12 (12.4, 13, 13.4, 13.8)(15.2, 15.7, 16.5)”

C: Back neck to underarm 12.5 (13, 13.5, 14, 14)(15.5, 16, 17)cm / 4.9 (5.1, 5.3, 5.5, 5.5)(6.1, 6.3, 6.7)”

D: Hem to underarm 22 (22, 23, 23, 24)(24, 24, 25)cm / 8.7 (8.7, 9.1, 9.1, 9.4)(9.4, 9.4, 9.8)”

E: Sleeve length 27 (27, 29, 29, 31)(31, 31, 33)cm / 10.5 (10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12)(12, 12, 13)”

Sample pictured is a size 5 on a model with a 39″ [99 cm] bust, worn with 2″ [5cm] of positive ease.

Gauge after blocking

20 sts and 19 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4″) using 3mm hook with hdc worked under three loops.

If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Before you measure, please take the time to wash and block your swatch in the same manner that you will wash and block your sweater.

General notes

• The crochet sweater pattern uses US crochet terminology.
• Sweater is worked from the top down with raglan shaping.
• Stitch marker placement: When instructed to place your marker, place on the last st worked unless instructed. It should lie on a stitch, not between stitches.
• The yoke is worked in TURNED rounds.
• To make the beginning of new round in the yoke as invisible as possible, the BOR marker is placed in the raglan point on back.
• The lower body and sleeves are worked top down in UNTURNED rounds. You will then add the hem and cuffs in rows, joining them to the body as you go.
• The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.
• When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
• Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
• Mosaic pattern is the same for both lower body and sleeves.

Mosaic pattern notes

• You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
• Color is changed after every 2 rounds.
• You can avoid weaving in all those ends by not cutting the yarn when you finish a round. Simply carry the other color along the inside and pick it back up with your hook when you need to use it again.

How to read the mosaic chart

• Chart is read from bottom to top and each row of squares represents 2 rounds worked in same color.
• All odd rounds (1, 3, 5, etc.) are read from right to left.
• All even rounds (2, 4, 6, etc.) are read from left to right.
• Each square of the chart represents 1 stitch or 1 skipped stitch.
• Whenever you see a square of color dedicated to that round, work single crochet.
• Whenever you see a square of different color in that round, skip that stitch (make chain). To prevent puckering, make the same number of chain as the number of skipped sts plus ch1. For example, for 1 skipped st – make ch2, for 2 skipped sts – make ch3, for 3 skipped sts – make ch4, etc.
• Pay special attention to number of skipped stitches when working odd rounds.
• When working even rounds make sure you work sc in every st without missing any.
• On next odd round (after color change), mosaicdc will be worked in these skipped sts from two rounds below. Remember, mosaicdc are always worked in front of chains of previous rounds.

Stitches & abbreviations (US terms)

ch(s) – chain(s) stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

BOR – beginning of the row/round

sc(s) – single crochet

BLsc – back loop only single crochet

slst – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

hdc – half double crochet – yo, insert hook under three loops, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all three loops.

hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together) – yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops.

linked hdc – yo, insert hook in ch1-sp on the edge of prev short row, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in same st where slst was made, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull yarn through all four loops on the hook.

mosaicdc (mosaic double crochet) – work regular dc in unworked/skipped st of the same color two rounds below in front of chain space (in front of work). These chains will stay behind mosaicdc and will stay unworked.

M – marker

PM – place marker

sp – space

sk – skip

beg – beginning

prev – previous

RS – right side

WS – wrong side

Pattern

Yoke

Neckband

With 2.5mm hook and your main yarn, ch8.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.

You should have 7 sc stitches in each of neckband’s rows.

Repeat Row 2 108 (110, 124, 128, 136)(140, 150, 158) times for a total of 110 (112, 126, 130,
138)(142, 152, 160) rows.

Use slip stitches to join last and first row together. Don’t break the yarn.

How to start your crochet project with a crochet ribbing, tutorial here.

Marker set up (RS):

With 3mm hook make ch1 (does not count as a st) and sc in first neckband’s row, place BOR marker, sc in next 18(18,20,21,22)(23,25,26) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 43(44,49,50,53)(54,57,60) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 18(18,20,21,22)(23, 25,26) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 27(28,33,34,37)(38,41,44) neckband’s rows. Slst to the first sc to close the round.

These raglan markers indicate divisions between right sleeve, front, left sleeve, and back sections.

Short rows (shaping back)ROWS (shaping back)

Short row 1: ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 2 regular hdcs in the same st, mark the first made hdc as a BOR, regular hdc in next 2(2,2,3,3)(3,3,3)scs, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,3,3)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,3,3)scs, regular hdc in each st to BOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), regular hdc in the same st as prev BOR, regular hdc in each st to next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs),  regular hdc in next 2(2,2,3,3)(3,3,3)scs, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,3,3)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,3,3)scs, regular hdc in each st to M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), regular hdc in each st untilBOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR).

TIP: Mark ch1-sp on the edge of every short row for easy stitch count.

Short row 2: hdc in next 6(6,6,7,7)(7,8,8)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),  hdc in next 2(2,2,2,3)(3,3,3)scs, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,2,3)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,2,3)scs, hdc in each st to BOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), hdc in each st until next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in next 6(6,6,7,7)(7,8,8)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),  hdc in next 2(2,2,2,3)(3,3,3)scs, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,2,3)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,2,3)scs, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in each st untilBOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR).

Short row 3: hdc in next 13(13,13,14,15)(15,16,17)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),  hdc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(3,3,3)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to BOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), hdc in each st until next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in next 13(13,13,14,15)(15,16,17)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),  hdc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(3,3,3)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in each st toBOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second made hdc as a new BOR).

Short row 4: hdc in next 19(19,20,21,22)(23,24,25)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),  hdc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,3,3)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to BOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), hdc in each st until next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in next 19(19,20,21,22)(23,24,25)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst), hdc in next 2(2,2,2,2)(2,3,3)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in each st toBOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second made hdc as a new BOR).

Don’t turn and continue.

Next round: hdc in each st to next M making linked hdc on edge of last short row, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M making linked hdc on edge of last short row, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.

After this round you should have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 45(46, 51, 52, 55)(56,59,62)sts on back and front and 28(28, 30, 31, 32)(33, 35, 36) sts on each sleeve sections.

You will now continue by working in turned rounds. 

Round 1: ch2, 2hdcs in same st, reposition BOR to first made hdc, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, hdc in the first st where first 2hdcs are placed, slst to BOR. Turn.

Repeat Round 1 13(14, 16, 14, 13)(16, 17, 19) more times

After the last repeat of Round 1, you should have on back and front 73(76, 85, 82, 83)(90, 95, 102)sts; on each sleeves: 56(58, 64, 61, 60)(67, 71, 76)sts; plus 4 raglan sts. 

Next rounds:

Work below Round 1a and Round 2a according to your size!

Round 1a: ch2, 2hdcs in same st, reposition BOR to first made hdc, 2hdcs in next st, hdc in each st until one st left before next M, 2hdcs in next st, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), 2hdcs in next st, hdc in each st until one st left before next M, 2hdcs in next st, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, hdc in the first st where first 2hdcs are placed, slst to BOR. Turn.

Round 2a: ch2, 2hdcs in same st, reposition BOR to first made hdc, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), 2hdcs in next st, hdc in each st until on st left before next M, 2hdcs in next st, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), 2hdcs in next st, hdc in each st until one st left before BOR, 2hdcs in next st, hdc in the first st where first 2hdcs are placed, slst to BOR. Turn.

ONLY Size 1: Work Round 1a one time.

ONLY Size 2: Work Round 2a one time.

ONLY Size 3: Work Round 2a one time.

ONLY Size 4: Work Round 2a, Round 1a and Round 2a.

ONLY Size 5: Work Round 1a, Round 2a, Round 1a and Round 2a.

ONLY Size 6: Work Round 2a, Round 1a and Round 2a.

ONLY Size 7: Work Round 1a, Round 2a and Round 1a.

ONLY Size 8: Work Round 1a, Round 2a and Round 1a.

274(284, 314, 326, 338)(354, 372, 396) total sts; at back and front 77(80, 89, 94, 99)(102, 107, 114)sts; at sleeves: 58(60, 66, 67, 68)(73, 77, 82)sts; plus 4 raglan sts.  

SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

After the last repeat of round 1a or Round 2a turn your work. Next the body and sleeves are separated.

ONLY Size 1: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 2: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 3: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch1, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch1, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 4: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch1, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch1, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 5: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch2, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch2, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 6: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch4, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch4, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 7: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to BOR, sls to BOR.

ONLY Size 8: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch2, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to BOR, sls to BOR.

LOWER BODY

Lower body is worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs till work measures 13(13,  14, 14, 15)(15, 15, 16)cm/ 5(5, 5.5, 5.5, 6)(6, 6, 6.5)” from underarm (or 9cm/3.5” short of desired length of the sweater).

When you come to underarm chains, work regular hdc in each chain until end of the underarm.

Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round).

!! ONLY SIZES 2, 4 and 5: make two decreases (hdc2tog two times) evenly in your final round.

End your final round with three sc stitches (instead of hdcs) before BOR. Change to contrasting Yarn in third sc.

If the stitch count after your final round is multiple of 4, start working colorwork.

COLORWORK

Colorwork is worked in one continuous spiral.

With RS facing you.

Round 1 (contrasting yarn): sc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), [ch2, sk next st, sc in next 3sts] rep around until 3sts remain before BOR, ch2, sk next st, sc in next 2sts (don’t join the round – here and throughout).

Round 2 (contrasting yarn): sc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), [ch2, sk ch-2 sp, sc in next 3sts] rep around until last ch-2 sp and 2sts remain before BOR, ch2, sk last ch-2 sp, sc in next 2sts. Change to main Yarn in second sc.

Round 3 (main yarn): ch2 (mark this ch-2 sp as a new BOR), sk next st, mosaicdc in next st (in unworked st of same color two rounds below, in front of chains – here and throughout), [ch2, sk next st, sc in next st, ch2, sk next st, mosaicdc in next st] rep around until 2sts remain before ch-2sp with BOR, ch2, sk next st, sc in next st.

Round 4 (main yarn): ch2 (mark this ch-2 sp as a new BOR), sk ch-2 sp, sc in next mosaicdc, ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc, [ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next mosaicdc, ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next sc] rep around until BOR. Change to contrasting Yarn in last sc.

Round 5 (contrasting yarn): mosaicdc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st, [ch2, sk next st, mosaicdc in next st, sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st] rep around until one st remain before BOR, ch2, sk next st.

Round 6 (contrasting yarn): sc in next mosaicdc (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in next 2sts, [ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3sts] rep around until ch-2 sp remain before BOR, ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, change to main yarn.

Round 7 (main yarn): sc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk next st, sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st, [sc in next st, ch2, sk next st, sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st] rep around until BOR.

Round 8 (main yarn): sc in next sc (mark this st as a new BOR), [ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3sts] rep around until 2sts remain before BOR, ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next 2sts. Change to contrasting Yarn in last sc.

Round 9 (contrasting yarn): sc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), mosaicdc in next st, sc in next st, ch2, sk next st, [sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st, sc in next st, ch2, sk next st] rep around until BOR.

Round 10 (contrasting yarn): sc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in next 2sts, [ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3sts] rep around until ch-2 sp remain before BOR. Change to main Yarn in last sc.

Round 11 (main yarn): mosaicdc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk next st, sc in next st, ch2, sk next st, [mosaicdc in next st, ch2, sk next st, sc in next st, ch2, sk next st] rep around until BOR.

Round 12 (main yarn): sc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), [ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next st] rep around until last ch-2 sp remain before BOR. Change to contrasting Yarn in last sc.

Round 13 (contrasting yarn): mosaicdc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st, ch2, sk next st, [mosaicdc in next st, sc in next st, mosaicdc in next st, ch2, sk next st] rep around until BOR.

Round 14 (contrasting yarn): sc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in next 2sts, [ch2, sk next ch-2 sp, sc in next 3sts] rep around until ch-2 sp remain before BOR. Change to main Yarn in last sc.

Round 15 (main yarn): mosaicdc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in next 3sts, [mosaicdc in next st, sc in next 3sts] rep around until BOR.

Round 16 (main yarn): sc in next st (mark this st as a new BOR), sc in each st around until BOR, slst to BOR.

DON’T fasten and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 8 that begins the hem originates from BOR point.

HEM

The hem is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 3mm hook.

With RS facing you.

Row 1: ch8, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [7sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.

How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.

SLEEVES (Both worked the same):

Sleeves are worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs.

With RS facing you, attach main Yarn with slst in a central space in the underarm to begin working around.

Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round).

Continue with Round 1 making one hdc2tog decrease on every 4th round 8(8, 9, 9, 10)(10, 10, 11) times. Reposition BOR as you go.

Work rounds of hdc and decreases till work measures 18(18, 20, 20, 22)(22, 22, 24)cm/ 7(7, 8, 8, 8.7)(8.7, 8.7, 9.5)” from underarm (or 9cm/3.5” short of desired length of the sleeve).

After the last round with decrease, make:

ONLY SIZE 1: one round of hdcs without decrease and one round with 1 decrease.

ONLY SIZE 2: one round of hdcs without decrease and one round with 1 decrease.

ONLY SIZE 3: two rounds of hdcs without decrease and one round with 2 decreases evenly.

ONLY SIZE 4: one round of hdcs without decrease and one round with 3 decreases evenly.

ONLY SIZE 5: two rounds of hdcs without decrease.

ONLY SIZE 6: one round of hdcs without decrease and one round with 3 decreases evenly.

ONLY SIZE 7: one round of hdcs without decrease and one round with 2 decreases evenly.

ONLY SIZE 8: one round of hdcs without decrease and one round with 1 decrease.

End your final round with three sc stitches (instead of hdcs) before BOR. Change to contrasting Yarn in third sc.

If the stitch count after your final round is multiple of 4, start working colorwork.

!!
COLORWORK PATTERN IS THE SAME AS FOR THE LOWER BODY (see Colorwork above).

DON’T fasten and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 8 that begins the cuff originates from attached yarn point.

CUFF

The cuffs are worked in rows and attached to the sleeve as you go. Continue with 2.5mm hook.

With RS facing you.

Row 1: ch8, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [7sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until your cuff is joined to the entire sleeve edge. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.

How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.

Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your sweater to measurements. Sew up underarm holes if necessary.

If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com

PIN IN FOR LATER

COLORWORK TUTORIAL (the same for lower body and both sleeves)

The photos below show all 16 rounds of the mosaic band, worked in berry red and cream. Some of them have red notes that point out where the round begins and where to change color.

Round 1:

Round 2:

Round 3:

Round 4:

Round 5:

Round 6:

Round 7:

Round 8:

Round 9:

Round 10:

Round 11:

Round 12:

Round 13:

Round 14:

Round 15:

Round 16:

OTHER MOSAIC CROCHET PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LOVE

• Duende Hat. Want a small mosaic project first? This hat is crocheted in the round from the bottom up, with a ribbed brim that looks a lot like knitting. You can make it slouchy or fitted, and there’s a photo tutorial to help you.
• Namari Mosaic Cowl. Here’s a quick one you can finish in a weekend. Pick two contrasting colors, and by the end of the weekend you can wear it tucked under a coat or over a sweater.
• Dioon Pillow. Ready for mosaic at home? This square cushion cover grows from the center out, round by round, and has a buttoned back. The first rounds come with a step-by-step photo tutorial.
• Carina Mosaic Shawl. Carina came later in my mosaic series. It’s a big top-down triangle with wide bands of mosaic, made in soft merino, with a photo tutorial for the stitches.

Looking for even more? See my 10 free mosaic crochet patterns or browse all my mosaic crochet patterns.

Want to hear about my new mosaic patterns first? Join my newsletter, and I’ll send them straight to your inbox.

So, cropped or longer? And which two colors did you pick? Tell me in the comments, I love seeing how everyone makes this sweater their own. And if a round gives you trouble, ask me there too, so the next person with the same question finds the answer.