Mosaic Crochet Cowl Pattern: How to Make the Namari Cowl

Updated: 6 November 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)

This mosaic crochet cowl was born in my stash, right next to a growing pile of half skeins of sock yarn. Namari is my answer to that pile, with two colors, a bold zigzag band and a dotted top.

Raise your hand if you have a pile like that too. Those skeins are too pretty to throw away and too small for a sweater, so they stay in the stash for years.

This cowl finally puts them to work. You need one main color and one contrast, and ribbing at both edges gives it a neat finish with no sewing anywhere.

Scroll down for the free Namari Mosaic Cowl pattern with a photo for every round. If you’d like it ad-free and printable, with a chart and a stitch tracker, get the PDF on Etsy or on Ravelry.

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From a mosaic shawl to a mosaic crochet cowl

This mosaic crochet cowl shares its pattern with my Namari Mosaic Shawl, and the shawl came first. The cowl simply takes those dots and zigzags and wraps them snugly around your neck.

The shawl had its own spark, a knitted design by Andrea Mowry with dots and a zigzag insert. So this little cowl has a bit of knitting in its family tree.

How the mosaic crochet cowl is made

Here’s the order of things. First comes Ribbing 1, a narrow strip of back loop single crochet worked sideways and joined into a ring, and then the mosaic body grows from its edge in joined rounds.

The top gets Ribbing 2, crocheted sideways and attached with slip stitches as you go. This end-joined ribbing is my favorite way to finish an edge, with no sewing, no fuss and a clean line.

Between the two ribbings is where the fun happens. First a band of zigzags, then dots, dots and more dots.

Mosaic crochet in the round, one color per round

Mosaic crochet looks like the hardest kind of colorwork, and the secret is that it isn’t. Each round uses one color only, you crochet in the back loops and you chain over the stitches you want to skip.

Two rounds later, a mosaic double crochet drops down in front of those chains and lands in the skipped stitch. It’s the inset mosaic technique behind all my mosaic designs, and it draws every zigzag and dot.

The yarn ends stay under control as well. Instead of cutting after every round, you leave the spare color hanging inside the cowl and pick it up two rounds later.

If mosaic is new to you, my mosaic crochet tutorial walks through the basics first.

Is this mosaic crochet cowl hard to make?

It’s rated intermediate, mostly for the mosaic rounds. If you can work single and double crochet in the back loop, you already know every stitch in this cowl.

The zigzag band asks you to count. Then the dots take over, just two rounds on repeat, the kind you can crochet while chatting.

Each written round has its own photos and a stitch count, so checking your work takes a second.

Yarn, size and blocking for this mosaic crochet cowl

I used Malabrigo Sock, a soft 100% merino, and it’s still the yarn I recommend for this mosaic crochet cowl. The main color takes about 341 yards and the contrast about 171. One skein of each color is plenty, and my shades, Aguas and Natural, are on LoveCrafts too.

This mosaic crochet cowl is about 22.5 inches around and 16.5 inches tall. For a wider one, work more ribbing rows in multiples of 10, and for a taller one, add more dotted rounds.

Since it’s merino, a soak is all it needs. I wet block it, gently squeeze out the water and let it dry flat in shape.

Saving it for a cold day? Pin this mosaic crochet cowl to your Pinterest board so it’s easy to find when the temperature drops.

Namari mosaic crochet cowl pattern

• Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here on Etsy or here on Ravelry.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue here.

Copyright 2021–2026 MyCrochetory. All rights reserved. This pattern is the property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please do not sell this pattern or claim it as your own. It is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights and do not share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The cowl you make following this pattern is yours, and you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as the original designer. For more information, please read the Terms Page.

Materials and tools

• Yarn: Malabrigo Sock (100% merino wool, 100 g = 400 m / 437 yd), in 2 colors
• Yarn A Aguas, about 312 m (341 yd)
• Yarn B Natural, about 156 m (171 yd)
• Hook: 3.5 mm, or the size you need for the gauge
• Notions: stitch marker, tapestry needle, scissors

Level

Intermediate, mosaic crochet.

Size after blocking

One size, adjustable. About 57 cm (22.5″) around and 42 cm (16.5″) high.

Gauge after blocking

21 sts and 20 rounds of sc = 10 × 10 cm (4″ × 4″). Block your swatch the same way you will block your cowl.

Notes

• The pattern uses US crochet terms.
• Ribbing 1 is worked in rows, the main body in joined rounds on the right side, and Ribbing 2 in rows joined to the body as you go.
• The mosaic body is a multiple of 10 sts. For a wider or narrower cowl, work more or fewer ribbing rows, always a multiple of 10.
• For a taller or shorter cowl, work more or fewer repeats of Rounds 36–37.
• Change color every round. Don’t cut the yarn, carry the other color up inside and pick it up again.
• BLsc2 means 1 BLsc in each of the next 2 sts. For every skipped st, chain one more than you skip, ch2 over 1 st, ch4 over 3 sts.
• Follow the written rounds or the chart. The counts in (…) are for the whole round, skipped sts included.

Mosaic crochet cowl chart

Read the chart from bottom to top and every round from right to left. Each square is 1 st. In the round’s own color, work BLsc (or BLmosaicdc over the chains below), and in the other color, skip the st. The first square of each round is the BOR sc.

Abbreviations and special stitch (US terms)

• ch – chain
• st(s) – stitch(es)
• sc – single crochet
• dc – double crochet
• BLsc – back loop only single crochet
• BLdc – back loop only double crochet
• slst – slip stitch
• sk – skip
• sp – space
• yo – yarn over
• M – marker, PM – place marker
• BOR – beginning of round
• BLmosaicdc – a BLdc worked in the skipped st of the same color 2 rounds below, in front of the chains of the previous round. The chains stay behind it, unworked.

Pattern

Read all Notes before you start.

Ribbing 1

Foundation: With 3.5 mm hook and Yarn A, ch9.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), BLsc across to end. Turn. (8 sts)

Rows 3–120: Repeat Row 2 118 more times, for 120 rows in total (or any multiple of 10). Join the last row to the first. Don’t break the yarn.

Main body of the mosaic crochet cowl

In Round 1, work 1 sc in the end of each ribbing row.

Round 1 (Yarn A): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in first ribbing’s row, place BOR marker, sc in each ribbing’s rows until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts)

Round 2 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 48 skipped)

Round 3 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 4 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 35 skipped)

Round 5 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, [BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 6 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 7 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, [ch4, sk 3sts, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until 1 st remains before BOR, ch2, sk 1st, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 47 skipped)

Round 8 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, [BLmosaicdc2, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 9 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch4, sk 3sts, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, [ch8, sk 7sts, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until 3 sts remain before BOR, ch4, sk 3sts, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 83 skipped)

Round 10 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc3, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc3, [BLmosaicdc4, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc3] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts)

Round 11 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, ch8, sk 7sts, BLsc1, [BLsc2, ch8, sk 7sts, BLsc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 84 skipped)

Round 12 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc7, ch2, sk 1st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc7, ch2, sk 1st] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 13 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch4, sk 3sts, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch4, sk 3sts, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 47 skipped)

Round 14 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, ch3, sk 2sts, BLmosaicdc3, ch3, sk 2sts, BLsc1, [BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, ch3, sk 2sts, BLmosaicdc3, ch3, sk 2sts, BLsc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 48 skipped)

Round 15 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc2, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc2, [ch4, sk 3sts, BLmosaicdc2, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc2] rep around until 1 st remains before BOR, ch2, sk 1st, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 47 skipped)

Rounds 16–23: Repeat Rounds 8–15.

Rounds 24–29: Repeat Rounds 8–13.

Round 30 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc3, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, [BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc3, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 31 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 32 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 36 skipped)

Round 33 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc2, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts incl. 24 skipped)

Round 34 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 48 skipped)

Round 35 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts)

Round 36 (Yarn B): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn A in final st. (120 sts incl. 60 skipped)

Round 37 (Yarn A): ch1, sc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR, slst to BOR to join. Change to Yarn B in final st. (120 sts)

Rounds 38–69: Repeat Rounds 36–37 16 more times, or until the cowl is as tall as you like. Don’t break the yarn.

Ribbing 2

Ribbing 2 is worked in rows and attached to the main body as you go. Continue with the 3.5 mm hook and Yarn A.

Row 1: ch9, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to main body. Join to the next st of the main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slsts in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Row 2: Starting from 4th st from hook, work BLsc in each st across to end. Turn. (8 sts)

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across. Join to the next st of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slsts in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn. (8 sts)

Next rows: Repeat Rows 2–3 until your ribbing is joined to the entire main body. Then join your last row with the first row using slip stitches.

Fasten off, weave in all ends and wet block your cowl.

If you have any suggestions or have found a mistake, please email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.

Finished your Namari? Share a photo on Instagram with #mycrochetory and tag @mycrochetory, I’d love to see which sock yarn leftovers you used. If you get stuck, ask in my Facebook Group or Ravelry Group, or email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.

More Namari and mosaic crochet patterns

If the zigzags got you hooked, here’s more mosaic to try, starting with the shawl that came first.

• Namari Mosaic Shawl, the same dots and zigzags in a big triangle shawl.
• Duende Cowl, a plum and off-white mosaic cowl, made to match the Duende Hat.
• Duende Hat, a warm beanie with zigzags all the way around.
• Drutozlot Cowl, the cowl I designed for my first mosaic crochet workshop.
• 10 free mosaic crochet patterns, for even more ideas.

More crochet cowl patterns

Prefer a cowl in a different stitch? Each of these has its own texture.

• Greus Cowl, an asymmetrical cowl with the shape of a triangle shawl.
• Herringbone Cowl, thick and warm herringbone stitch in beige alpaca.
• Lilac Mobius Cowl, a cowl with a half twist and only one side.
• October Cowl, a snug collar cowl with cables all the way around.

Mosaic crochet cowl FAQ

Can I use leftover sock yarn for this mosaic crochet cowl?

Yes, that’s exactly what it was designed for. Any fingering weight yarn works, as long as the two colors contrast clearly.

Why are some chains longer than ch2?

For every skipped stitch you chain one more than you skip, so ch2 over 1 stitch and ch4 over 3. That keeps the mosaic from pulling in.

Can I use more than two colors in a mosaic crochet cowl?

Yes. Each round still uses one color, so you can switch the main color for a new one at any round, as long as it contrasts with the color in the rounds next to it.