Duende Crochet Cowl free pattern

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Learn how to crochet this mosaic Duende Crochet Cowl using two contrasting colors for a gorgeous effect with my free pattern!

Scroll down to see the Duende Cowl free crochet pattern or you may choose to purchase the ad-free, printable PDF crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry.

Learn how to crochet this mosaic Duende Crochet Cowl using two contrasting colors for a gorgeous effect with my free pattern!

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Learn how to crochet this mosaic Duende Crochet Cowl using two contrasting colors for a gorgeous effect with my free pattern!

Mosaic crochet patterns are still so on trend and I couldn’t help myself but to design another one. If you’re a fan of crochet mosaic colorwork, you’ll adore this beautiful crochet cowl pattern that adds richness and warmth to your look. It’s a cozy way to welcome cooler days, so put this pattern on your to-do list!

This crochet cowl pattern has been on my “to make” list since I released my crochet Duende Hat in 2020. The Duende Crochet Cowl is a prefect accessory for your fall/winter season wardrobe and it looks way more complicated than it is. With a more-close-fitting size and its great height, this crochet cowl is a fun and cozy item because you can shield your mouth and nose from cold winds.

It’s amazing how winter can feel much less harsh as long as you are wearing something warm to protect your neck!

Learn how to crochet this mosaic Duende Crochet Cowl using two contrasting colors for a gorgeous effect with my free pattern!

Duende Crochet Cowl pattern is perfect for practicing your skills in working with two different colors and getting a taste of mosaic crochet technique: it’s both manageable and skill-building. The two-color geometric motif is easy to memorize and follow, and the end result is striking.

Even if you have never tried mosaic crochet in the round before, you will easily be able to follow the pattern because I put together step-by-step tutorial with many pictures below so you can visualize how and where insert your hook to complete the stitches.

Learn how to crochet this mosaic Duende Crochet Cowl using two contrasting colors for a gorgeous effect with my free pattern!

Duende Crochet Cowl pattern has one size (adjustable) and no visible seam. Worked in one piece in the round with just approx. 385m of yarn, it’s a quick project suited for precious materials.

For my sample cowl I used the Drops Nord yarn. Since this yarn is an alpaca, polyamide and wool blend, this crochet cowl are incredibly warm, cozy and soft. The color range in this yarn is awesome – there’s something for everyone.

I’ve made a couple of other free patterns, apart from this crochet cowl pattern, with this yarn. These include my Duende Hat, Havra Infinity Scarf and Field of Flowers Shawl.

I hope you will like my mosaic crochet cowl pattern and will proudly wear it, or give it as a gift to someone you love.

OTHER CROCHET COWL FREE PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LOVE

  1. Namari Mosaic Cowl
  2. Ombre Moss Stitch Cowl
  3. Herringbone Cowl

If you want to share your wips and finished Duende Crochet Cowl pattern on social media, please, use hashtag #mycrochetory. I love to see your finished project!

DUENDE CROCHET COWL FREE PATTERN

Copyright 2021 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The crochet cowl you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.

Materials & Tools:

  1. Yarn DROPS Nord 50g = 170 m, 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool, in 2 colors:

Yarn A: plum(17) – 238m,

Yarn B: off white(01)– 147m.

  • Hook size 3.5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
  • Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends),
  • Scissors,
  • Stitch marker.

Level:

Intermediate – mosaic crochet.

Sizes:

one size, adjustable: approx. 29cm/11.4” circumference and 39cm/15.35” high.

Gauge after blocking:

18 sts and 18 rows = 10 cm x 10 cm using main body pattern.

If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

Before you measure, please take the time to block your swatch in the same manner that you will block your cowl.

General Notes:

  • The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
  • The cowl, after the Ribbing 1, is worked in one continuous spiral of single crochet and BLmosaicdc stitches.
  • Pattern for mosaic body is multiple of 7 stitches. To increase the circumference of the cowl, increase the number of rows in ribbing.  To decrease the circumference of the cowl, decrease the number of rows in ribbing.
  • To increase the height of the cowl, increase the repeats of rows 3 – 12. To decrease the height of the cowl, decrease the repeats of rows 3 – 12.
  • STITCHES: When in the instructions you have a stitch followed by a number, eg sc14, this means you have to work 1sc stitch into each of the next 14 sts. When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 2sc, this this means you have to work 2 sc stitches into the next (same) stitch.
  • Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Mosaic Pattern Notes:

  • You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
  • Color is changed after every one round.
  • You can avoid weaving in all those ends by not cutting the yarn when you finish a round. Simply carry the other color along the inside and pick it back up with your hook when you need to use it again. 

How to read the Mosaic Chart:

  • Chart is read from bottom to top and each row of squares represents 1 round.
  • All rounds are read from right to left.
  • Each square of the chart represents 1 stitch or 1 skipped stitch.
  • Whenever you see a square of color dedicated to that round, work single crochet.
  • Whenever you see a square of different color in that round, skip that stitch (make chain). To prevent puckering,  make the same number of chain as the number of skipped sts plus ch1. For example, for 1 skipped st – make ch2, for 2 skipped sts – make ch3, for 3 skipped sts – make ch4, etc.
  • Pay special attention to number of skipped stitches.
  • BLmosaicdc will be worked in these skipped sts from two rounds below. Remember, BLmosaicdc are always worked in front of chains of previous round.

Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):

ch(s) – chain(s) stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

sc(s) – single crochet

dc(s) – double crochet

BLsc – back loop only single crochet

BLdc – back loop only double crochet

slst – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

BLmosaicdc (back loop only mosaic double crochet) – work regular BLdc in unworked/skipped st of the same color two rounds below in front of chain space (in front of work). These chains will stay behind BLmosaicdc and will stay unworked.

M – marker

PM – place marker

BOR – beginning of the row/round

sp – space

sk – skip

beg – beginning

prev – previous

PATTERN

Read all Notes before you start.

Ribbing 1

With 3.5 mm hook and Yarn A work ch8.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), BLsc across to end. Turn.

You should have 7 stitches in each row.

Repeat Row 2 103 more times for a total of 105 rows or until desired length.

Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.

Remember, this pattern is a multiple of 7 stitches, so in your Ribbing 1 section you should have multiple of 7 rows.

Don’t break the yarn.

Main Body

Round 1 (yarn A): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in first ribbing’s row, place BOR marker, sc in each ribbing’s rows until BOR. Don’t join the round. Change to Yarn B in final st.

Round 2 (yarn B): BLsc in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc5, [ch2, sk 1st, BLsc6] rep around until one st remain before BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.

Round 3 (yarn A): BLmosaicdc1 in one st before BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, [BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.

Round 4 (yarn B): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.

Round 5 (yarn A): ch2 (mark this ch2 as a new BOR), sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.

Round 6 (yarn B): BLmosaicdc1 in a st from round 4 under BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, [BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.

Round 7 (yarn A): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc2] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st.

Round 8 (yarn B): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.  

Round 9 (yarn A): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, [BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st. 

Round 10 (yarn B): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, [BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st. 

Round 11 (yarn A): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, [BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1, ch2, sk 1st, BLsc1] rep around until BOR. Change to Yarn B in final st. 

Round 12 (yarn B): BLsc1 in BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc2, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1, [ch2, sk 1st, BLsc3, BLmosaicdc1, BLsc1, BLmosaicdc1] rep around until one st remain before BOR. Change to Yarn A in final st.

Next, repeat Rows 3 – 12 until row 52 or until desired height.

Last Round (yarn A): BLmosaicdc1 in one st before BOR (mark this st as a new BOR), BLsc6, [BLmosaicdc1, BLsc6] rep around until BOR, slst in BOR to close the round. Remove stitch marker.

Don’t change the yarn and don’t break the yarn.

Ribbing 2

This ribbing 2 is worked in rows and attached to the main body as you go. Continue with 3.5mm hook.

Row 1: ch8, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to main body. Join to the next st of the main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across to end. Turn.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [7sts]. Join to the next st of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until your ribbing is joined to the entire main body. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.

Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your cowl.

If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com

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