Updated: 23 October 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)
This cropped crochet cardigan is the one I reach for all the time. I wear my ochre Rhea over dresses, with high-waisted jeans and even over a tank top on warm days.
Before Rhea, I made cardigans that ended up frogged, so this time I wanted one that fits right from the neckline down. It’s worked top down in one piece, with a deep V-neck, three buttons and a smooth, knit-like texture.
Scroll down to the free Rhea V-neck cardigan pattern, or get the ad-free, printable PDF HERE on Etsy or HERE on Ravelry.
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A Cropped Crochet Cardigan Inspired by Knitting
This cropped crochet cardigan started with knitting, again. I kept seeing knitted V-neck cardigans with a smooth, even fabric, and I wanted that same clean look in crochet.
The answer was half double crochet worked between the stitches. It hides the little line you usually see between rows of crochet, so the fabric looks smooth and almost knitted.
How This Cropped Crochet Cardigan Is Made
Rhea is a top-down cropped crochet cardigan worked in one piece, so there are no panels to sew together. You start with a narrow ribbed neckband and then work the yoke in rows of half double crochet.
The yoke has two kinds of shaping going on at the same time. Raglan increases make room for the shoulders and sleeves, while the neckline grows every 4th row and turns into that deep V.
After the yoke you split off the sleeves and work the body down in rows. The sleeves come last, worked in rounds with a few decreases on the way down to the cuff.
Ribbing, Buttons and a Little Waist Shaping
The hem and cuffs use my favorite way to add crochet ribbing, worked sideways and joined to the edge as you go. There’s nothing to sew, and the ribbing sits neatly against the body.
Then come two simple bands along the front, one with three buttonholes and one for the buttons. The body also has optional waist shaping, so you can make it fitted or keep it straight.
Cropped Crochet Cardigan Sizes and Fit
This cropped crochet cardigan comes in 9 sizes, with a finished bust from 31 to 47 inches. It’s meant to fit close, with -1 to 0 inches of ease.
That’s me in the photos, wearing Size 4 on my 37 inch bust with zero ease. In my size it’s about 9 inches from hem to underarm, which keeps it nicely cropped.
Before I published the pattern, testers made Rhea in several sizes and checked every step.
Yarn and Blocking for Your Cropped Crochet Cardigan
I made my Rhea in Slavica Yarns Vesna, a fingering weight blend of merino, baby alpaca and silk. Sadly it’s no longer available, so look for another fingering weight yarn that gives you 20 stitches and 19 rows in 4 inches. You’ll go through several skeins, so my guide on how to join yarn ends will help you keep every join invisible.
Because my yarn is mostly animal fiber, I wet block the finished cardigan. Soak it, gently shape it to the measurements, pin it flat and let it dry.
And yes, the color is ochre, a shade I’ve always loved.
Want to make it later? Save this cropped crochet cardigan on Pinterest so it’s easy to find when you’re ready.
Rhea Cropped Crochet Cardigan Free Pattern
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this cropped crochet cardigan pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2020 – 2026 MyCrochetory. All rights reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The cardigan you make following this pattern is yours, and you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as the original designer. For more information, please read the Terms Page.
Materials & Tools
- Yarn Slavicayarns Vesna 115g = 460m (504yds), 60% SW Merino, 20% Baby Alpaca, 20% Silk. This yarn is no longer available, so choose another fingering weight yarn that matches the gauge.
861(1011, 1105, 1148, 1259)(1385, 1493, 1658, 1752)m
942(1106.5, 1209, 1256, 1377.5)(1516, 1634, 1814, 1917)yds
Note that yardage may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.
- Hook size 3mm.
Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge. - Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends).
- Scissors.
- Stitch markers.
- 3 buttons.
Skill Level
Intermediate
Sizes
1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9)
Finished Measurements
Measurements given are for the finished cardigan. Recommended ease is -1 to 0”/-2.5 to 0 cm.
To pick your best size, measure your full bust and pick the finished bust circumference closest to that number.
A: Bust circumference (including V-neck gap)
79(84, 89, 94, 99)(104, 109, 115, 120)cm
31(33, 35, 37, 39)(41, 43, 45, 47)”
B: Upper sleeve circumference
30.5 (31.5, 33, 34, 35)(38.5, 40, 42, 45.5)cm
12 (12.4, 13, 13.4, 13.8)(15.2, 15.7, 16.5, 18)”
C: Back neck to underarm
14.5 (15, 16, 16.5, 17)(18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21)cm
5.75 (6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75)(7.25, 7.75, 8, 8.25)”
D: Hem to underarm
22 (22, 23, 23, 24)(24, 24, 25, 25)cm
8.75 (8.75, 9, 9, 9.5)(9.5, 9.5, 10, 10)”
E: Sleeve length
27(27, 29, 29, 31)(31, 31, 33, 33)cm
10.5(10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12)(12, 12, 13, 13)”
F: Waist circumference
64(66, 70, 76, 78)(84, 86, 90, 96)cm
25(26, 27.5, 30, 30.5)(33, 33.75, 35.25, 38)”
Sample pictured is a size 4 on a model with a 37″[94 cm] bust, worn with 0″[0cm] of positive ease.
Gauge After Blocking
20 sts and 19 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) using 3mm hook with hdc worked under three loops.
If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.
General Notes
- This cropped crochet cardigan pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- Cardigan is worked from the top down with raglan and deep V-neck shaping.
- Stitch marker placement: When instructed to place your marker, place on the last st worked unless otherwise instructed. It should lie on a stitch, not between stitches.
- The yoke is worked top down in rows.
- The lower body is worked top down in rows. You will then add the hem in rows, joining them to the body as you go.
- The sleeves are worked top down in unturned rounds. You will then add the cuffs in rows, joining them to the sleeves as you go.
- The length of the sleeves is easily adjustable.
- When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US Terms)
st(s) – stitch(es)
BOR – beginning of the row/round
BLsc – back loop only single crochet
yo – yarn over
hdc – half double crochet – yo, insert hook under three loops, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all three loops.
hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together) – yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
M – marker
PM – place marker
sp – space
sk – skip
beg – beginning
prev – previous
RS – right side
WS – wrong side
Pattern
Yoke
Neckband
How to start your crochet project with a crochet ribbing TUTORIAL HERE.
With 3mm hook ch8.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remains, sc in last st. Turn.
You should have 7 stitches in each of neckband’s rows.
Repeat Row 2 75 (79, 80, 89, 90)(97, 102, 109, 113) times for a total of 77 (81, 82, 91, 92)(99, 104, 111, 115) rows.
Don’t join the first and last row and don’t break the yarn.
Marker set up (RS):
With 3mm hook make ch1 (does not count as a st) and sc in first neckband’s row, sc in next 4(4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 7) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 37(39, 40, 43, 44)(47, 48, 51, 53) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 5(5, 5, 6, 6)(7, 8, 8, 8) neckband’s rows.
These raglan markers indicate divisions between front right, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and front left sections.
After this row you should have (excludes 4Ms) 37(39, 40, 43, 44)(47, 48, 51, 53)sts on back, 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21)sts on each sleeve sections and 5(5, 5, 6, 6)(7, 8, 8, 8)sts on each front sections.
Next rows:
In this part of the yoke you will be working two sets of shaping AT THE SAME TIME: raglan shaping in each row and neckline shaping in every 4th row starting from row 1.
Row 1 (neckline shaping): ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in first st, 2hdc in next st, [hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep until last M, hdc in each st until 2sts remain, 2hdc in next st, hdc in last st. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, [hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep until last M, hdc in each st to end. Turn.
Rows 3 – 4: Repeat Row 2
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 until Row 17(20, 23, 24, 26)(25, 28, 30, 31) ending with repeat of Row 1(2, 2, 2, 2)(1, 2, 2, 2).
After the last repeat of Row 1 or Row 2, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 47(54, 60, 64, 68)(67, 74, 80, 83)sts; on each front sides: 27(30, 34, 36, 39)(39, 43, 46, 47)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.
ALL SIZES EXCEPT FOR SIZE 5:
NEXT, you will be increasing just a sleeve sections, whilst continuing neckline shaping.
Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, 2hdc in M (reposition M to
first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition
M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Work above Next row 4(2, 1, 0, -)(2, 0, 0, 2) more times.
After your last row, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 57(60, 64, 66, 68)(73, 76, 82, 89)sts; on each front sides: 28(31, 35, 37, 39)(39, 44, 46, 48)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.
ALL SIZES:
NEXT, you will be working JUST a neckline shaping.
Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, [1hdc in M (reposition M), hdc in each st to next M] rep until last M, 1hdc in M (reposition M), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Work above Next row 6(6, 5, 5, 6)(6, 8, 8, 6) more times.
After your last row, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 57(60, 64, 66, 68)(73, 76, 82, 89)sts; on each front sides: 30(33, 36, 38, 41)(41, 46, 48, 50)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.
Separate Body and Sleeves
Next the body and sleeves are separated.
NOTE: Continue to work neckline shaping every 4th row while working the following section.
Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, hdc in M (remove M), ch5(ch3, ch2, ch2, ch2)(ch5, ch3, ch2, ch2), sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5(ch3, ch2, ch2, ch2)(ch5, ch3, ch2, ch2), sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Lower Body
Lower body is worked in rows of hdcs till work measures 14(14, 15, 15, 16)(16, 16, 17, 17)cm/ 5.5(5.5, 6, 6, 6.25)(6.25, 6.25, 6.75, 6.75)” from underarm.
When you come to underarm chains, work regular hdc in each chain until end of the underarm. Continue neckline shaping (every 4th row).
Row 1: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in each ch and st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Repeat Row 1 9(6, 6, 6, 5)(7, 4, 4, 6) more times.
In the following section, you will be working two sets of shaping AT THE SAME TIME: continue neckline shaping (every 4th row) and waist shaping.
You can also continue to work without waist shaping.
Waist shaping pattern:
Row 1 (decrease row): ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary and working six decreases (hdc2tog six times) evenly. Turn.
Row 2 – 3: ch2, hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1-3 4(5, 6, 6, 7)(6, 7, 8, 7) more times.
SIZE 5, SIZE 6, SIZE 8, DON’T WORK FOLLOWING SECTION UNTIL HEM.
Next row: ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary and working two decreases (hdc2tog two times) evenly. Turn.
Repeat above Next row 1(1, 0, 0,-)(-, 0, -, 0) more times.
Hem
How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.
The hem is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 3mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch17, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting in the 4th st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [16sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Don’t fasten off.
Buttonhole Band
Turn a quarter, ch1 (doesn’t count as a st) and work with sc evenly along the first front edge up to neck opening, turn.
Next row (WS): ch1, sc across until the bottom. Turn.
Buttonhole row (RS): ch1, sc in next 2sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in next 4sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in next 4sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in each st to neck opening. Turn.
Next row (WS): ch1, sc in each st working 2sc in each ch-2sp across until the bottom. Turn.
Next row (RS): ch1, sc across until neck opening. Turn.
Fasten off.
Button Band
With RS facing, attach the yarn at the neck opening of the second front edge and work with sc evenly up to the bottom, turn.
Next Row: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in each st across. Turn.
Repeat last row three more times.
Fasten off.
Sleeves (Both Worked the Same)
Sleeves are worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs.
With RS facing you, attach main Yarn with sl st in a central space in the underarm to begin working around.
Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round)
Continue with Round 1, making one hdc2tog decrease round every 4th round 4(4, 5, 5, 5)(5, 5, 6, 6) times, then every 3rd round 4(4, 4, 4, 5)(5, 5, 5, 5) times. Reposition BOR as you go.
Work rounds of hdc and decreases till work measures 19(19, 21, 21, 23)(23, 23, 25, 25)cm/ 7.5(7.5, 8.25, 8.25, 9)(9, 9, 9.75, 9.75)” from underarm (or 8cm/3” short of desired length of the sleeve).
DON’T fasten off and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 17 that begins the cuff originates from attached yarn point.
Cuff
How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.
The cuffs are worked in rows and attached to the sleeve as you go. Continue with 3mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch17, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of the sleeve. Join to the next st of the edge of the sleeve using slst and work one more slst in the next st of the sleeve (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting in the 4th st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [16sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of the sleeve using slst and work one more slst in the next st of the sleeve (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your cuff is joined to the entire sleeve edge. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your cardigan to measurements. Sew up underarm holes if necessary.
Sew on buttons to match the button holes.
Stuck on a row? Ask in my Facebook Group or Ravelry Group, or email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.
Made your own Rhea? Share it on Instagram with #mycrochetory and tag @mycrochetory so I can see it.
More Free Crochet Cardigan and Sweater Patterns
If Rhea made you want a whole handmade wardrobe, these are a good next step. Two of them are top-down too, and the shrugs are great for layering over summer tops.
- Mosaic Cropped Sweater, a top-down raglan pullover with mosaic colorwork, in 8 sizes.
- Pocket Raglan Sweater, a two-color top-down raglan with half double crochet between the stitches and a pocket.
- Nusa Cardigan, an open lace cardigan in one size that fits S to L.
- Meadow Lace Shrug, one lace rectangle folded and seamed, with ribbed cuffs.
- Nalu Shrug, a lace shrug made from one rectangle, with ribbed cuffs.
Cropped Crochet Cardigan FAQ
Can I make this cropped crochet cardigan longer?
Yes, just keep working rows of the lower body until it’s the length you like, then add the hem. A longer body needs more yarn than the pattern lists.
Can I change the sleeve length?
Yes, the sleeves are worked last, so you can try the cardigan on. Stop the sleeve rounds about 3 inches before your ideal length and then add the cuff.
Do I have to work the waist shaping?
No, the waist shaping is optional. Skip it and keep working plain rows for a straighter, boxier cardigan.
How many buttons do I need for this cropped crochet cardigan?
You need 3 buttons. Pick ones that fit the chain 2 buttonholes, and sew them on after blocking.
Pin it for later and come back when you’re ready to start.
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