Rhea V-neck Crochet Cardigan – free pattern

Crocheting garments can be so much fun. Especially wearing something you’ve made for yourself is truly amazing! I’m so excited to show you my latest project – the Rhea V-neck Crochet Cardigan.

Scroll down to see the Rhea V-neck Cardigan free crochet pattern or you may choose to purchase the ad-free, printable PDF crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry.

Rhea V-Neck Crochet Cardigan - free crochet pattern by mycrochetory.com

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V-neck design

This light airy cardigan is the perfect finish for your three-season outfit.

Rhea V-neck Cardigan is a waist-length cardigan with a raglan increases to shape the yoke and subtle waist shaping. It’s perfect to wear with jeans, pants or over summer dresses.

Rhea V-neck Cardigan is elegant and very easy to wear crochet garment you’ll be reaching for regularly over the years to come. Its V-neckline and half double crochet worked under three loops stitch gives it a very feminine look.

Rhea V-neck Cardigan comes in 9 sizes with finished bust 79(84, 89, 94, 99)(104, 109, 115, 120)cm/ 31(33, 35, 37, 39)(41, 43, 45, 47)”. This v-neck cardigan is designed to fit with -1 to 0”/-2.5 to 0 cm of ease at the bust.

Top-down raglan construction

It’s worked seamlessly from the top down in one piece featuring a unique V-neckline and closed in the front with 3 buttons.

Once yoke shaping is complete, the lower body is worked first top-down to the hem. Buttonhole band and button band are worked next. At the end, sleeves are worked top-down in the rounds to the cuffs.

Because of its top-down construction, it’s possible to try on your cardigan as you go to check your fit.

The yarn

I bought SlavicaYarn Vesna yarn last September at Drutozlot (annual Polish yarn festival) having the exact idea for this v-neck cardigan in my mind back then. I am currently OBSESSED with this ochre shade.

You may remember that I made my Mosaic Cropped Sweater with this gorgeous yarn! I love soft yarns that feel incredible against the skin, and Slavica Yarn’s Vesna yarn is no exception! It’s fabulously soft, smooth and delicate – forget any, even the smallest, itching.

Although this v-neck cardigan is made with fingering weight yarn, it works up quickly and can be made in 9 sizes. The result is comfortable, light and wonderful to both see and touch!

OTHER CROCHET GARMENTS YOU MIGHT LOVE

I hope you enjoy my newest pattern, and thank you for reading!!

If you want to share your wips and finished v-neck cardigan on social media, please, use hashtag #mycrochetory. I love to see your finished project!

RHEA V-NECK CARDIGAN FREE PATTERN

Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
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Copyright 2018-2022 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The v-neck cardigan you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.

Materials & Tools:

Yarn Slavicayarns Vesna 115g = 460m (504yds), 60% SW Merino, 20% Baby Alpaca, 20% Silk.

861(1011, 1105, 1148, 1259)(1385, 1493, 1658, 1752)m

942(1106.5, 1209, 1256, 1377.5)(1516, 1634, 1814, 1917)yds

Note that yardage may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.

Hook size 3mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends),
Scissors,
Stitch markers,
3 buttons.

Level:

Intermediate

Sizes:

1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9)

Finished measurements:

Measurements given are for the finished garment. Recommended ease is -1 to 0”/-2.5 to 0 cm.

To pick your best size, measure your full bust and pick the finished bust circumference closest to that number.

A: Bust circumference (including V-neck gap)

79(84, 89, 94, 99)(104, 109, 115, 120)cm

31(33, 35, 37, 39)(41, 43, 45, 47)”

B: Upper sleeve circumference

30.5 (31.5, 33, 34, 35)(38.5, 40, 42, 45.5)cm

12 (12.4, 13, 13.4, 13.8)(15.2, 15.7, 16.5, 18)”

C: Back neck to underarm

14.5 (15, 16, 16.5, 17)(18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21)cm

5.75 (6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75)(7.25, 7.75, 8, 8.25)”

D: Hem to underarm

22 (22, 23, 23, 24)(24, 24, 25, 25)cm

8.75 (8.75, 9, 9, 9.5)(9.5, 9.5, 10, 10)”

E: Sleeve length

27(27, 29, 29, 31)(31, 31, 33, 33)cm

10.5(10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12)(12, 12, 13)”

F: Waist circumference

64(66, 70, 76, 78)(84, 86, 90, 96)cm

25(26, 27.5, 30, 30.5)(33, 33.75, 35.25, 38)”

Sample pictured is a size 4 on a model with a 37″[94 cm] bust, worn with 0″[0cm] of positive ease.

Gauge after blocking:

20 sts and 19 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) using 3mm hook with hdc worked under three loops.

If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.

General Notes:

The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
Sweater is worked from the top down with raglan and deep V-neck shaping.
Stitch marker placement: When instructed to place your marker, place on the last st worked unless otherwise instructed. It should lie on a stitch, not between stitches.
The yoke is worked top down in rows.
The lower body is worked top down in rows. You will then add the hem in rows, joining them to the body as you go.
The sleeves are worked top down in unturned rounds. You will then add the cuffs in rows, joining them to the sleeves as you go.
The length of the sleeves is easily adjustable.
When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):

ch(s) – chain(s) stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

BOR – beginning of the row/round

sc(s) – single crochet

BLsc – back loop only single crochet

slst – slip stitch

yo – yarn over

hdc – half double crochet – yo, insert hook under three loops, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all three loops. Visit my tutorial HERE.

hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together) – yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops.

M – marker

PM – place marker

sp – space

sk – skip

beg – beginning

prev – previous

RS – right ride

WS – wrong side

PATTERN

YOKE

Neckband

How to start your crochet project with a crochet ribbing TUTORIAL HERE.

With 3mm hook ch8.

Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.

You should have 7 stitches in each of neckband’s rows.

Repeat Row 2 75 (79, 80, 89, 90)(97, 102, 109, 129) times for a total of 77 (81, 82, 91, 92)(99, 104, 111, 113) rows.

Don’t join the first and last row and don’t break the yarn.

Marker set up (RS):

With 3mm hook make ch1 (does not count as a st) and sc in first neckband’s row, sc in next 4(4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 7) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 37(39, 40, 43, 44)(47, 48, 51, 53) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 5(5, 5, 6, 6)(7, 8, 8, 8) neckband’s rows.

These raglan markers indicate divisions between front right, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and front left sections.

After this row you should have (excludes 4Ms) 37(39, 40, 43, 44)(47, 48, 51, 53)sts on back, 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21)sts on each sleeve sections and 5(5, 5, 6, 6)(7, 8, 8, 8)sts on each front sections.

Next rows:

In this part of the yoke you will be working two sets of shaping AT THE SAME TIME: raglan shaping in each row and neckline shaping in every 4th row starting from row 1.

Row 1 (neckline shaping): ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in first st, 2hdc in next st, [hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep until last M, hdc in each st until 2sts remain, 2hdc in next st, hdc in last st. Turn.

Row 2: ch2, [hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep until last M, hdc in each st to end. Turn.

Rows 3 – 4: Repeat Row 2

Repeat Rows 1 – 4 until Row 17(20, 23, 24, 26)(25, 28, 30, 31) ending with repeat of Row 1(2, 2, 2, 2)(1, 2, 2, 2).

After the last repeat of Row 1 or Row 2, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 47(54, 60, 64, 68)(67, 74, 80, 83)sts; on each front sides: 26(30, 34, 36, 39)(39, 43, 46, 47)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.

ALL SIZES EXCEPT FOR SIZE 5:

NEXT, you will be increasing just a sleeve sections, whilst continuing neckline shaping.

Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, 2hdc in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.

Work above Next row 4(2, 1, 0, -)(2, 0, 0, 2) more times.

After your last row, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 57(60, 64, 66, 68)(73, 76, 82, 89)sts; on each front sides: 27(31, 35, 37, 39)(39, 44, 46, 48)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.

ALL SIZES:

NEXT, you will be working JUST a neckline shaping.

Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, [1hdc in M (reposition M), hdc in each st to next M] rep until last M, 1hdc in M (reposition M), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.

Work above Next row 6(6, 5, 5, 6)(6, 8, 8, 6) more times.

After your last row, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 57(60, 64, 66, 68)(73, 76, 82, 89)sts; on each front sides: 28(32, 36, 38, 40)(41, 46, 48, 49)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.

SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES

Next the body and sleeves are separated.

NOTE: Continue to work neckline shaping every 4th row while working the following section.

Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, hdc in M (remove M), ch5(ch3, ch2, ch2, ch2)(ch5, ch3, ch2, ch2), sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5(ch3, ch2, ch2, ch2)(ch5, ch3, ch2, ch2), sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.

LOWER BODY

Lower body is worked in rows of hdcs till work measures 14(14, 15, 15, 16)(16, 16, 17, 17)cm/ 5.5(5.5, 6, 6, 6.25)(6.25, 6.25, 6.75, 6,75)” from underarm.

When you come to underarm chains, work regular hdc in each chain until end of the underarm. Continue neckline shaping (every 4th row).

Row 1: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in each ch and st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.

Repeat Row 1 9(6, 6, 6, 5)(7, 4, 4, 6) more times.

In the following section, you will be working two sets of shaping AT THE SAME TIME: continue neckline shaping (every 4th row) and waist shaping.

You can also continue to work without waist shaping.

Waist shaping pattern:

Row 1 (decrease row): ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary and working six decreases (hdc2tog six times) evenly. Turn.

Row 2 – 3: ch2, hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.

Repeat Rows 1-3 4(5, 6, 6, 7)(6, 7, 8, 7) more times.

SIZE 5, SIZE 6, SIZE 8, DON’T WORK FOLLOWING SECTION UNTIL HEM.

Next row: ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary and working two decreases (hdc2tog two times) evenly. Turn.

Repeat above Next row 1(1, 0, 0,-)(-, 0, -, 0) more times.

HEM

How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.

The hem is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 3mm hook.

With RS facing you.

Row 1: ch17, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [16sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Don’t fasten off.

Buttonhole band

Turn a quarter, ch1 (dosn’t count as a st) and work with sc evenly along the first front edge up to neck opening, turn.

Next row (WS): ch1, sc across until the bottom. Turn.

Buttonhole row (RS): ch1, sc in next 2sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in next 4sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in next 4sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in each st to neck opening. Turn.

Next row (WS): ch1, sc in each st working 2sc in each ch-2sp across until the bottom. Turn.

Next row (RS): ch1, sc across until neck opening. Turn.

Fasten off.

Button band

With RS facing, attach the yarn at the neck opening of the second front edge and work with sc evenly up to the bottom, turn.

Next Row: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in each st across. Turn.

Repeat last row three more times.

Fasten off.

SLEEVES (Both worked the same):

Sleeves are worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs.

With RS facing you, attach main Yarn with slst in a central space in the underarm to begin working around.

Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round)

Continue with Round 1making one hdc2tog decrease round every 4th round 4(4, 5, 5, 5)(5, 5, 6, 6) times, then every 3th round 4(4, 4, 4, 5)(5, 5, 5, 5) times. Reposition BOR as you go.

Work rounds of hdc and decreases till work measures 19(19, 21, 21, 23)(23, 23, 25, 25)cm/ 7.5(7.5, 8.25, 8.25, 9)(9, 9, 9.75, 9.75)” from underarm (or 8cm/3” short of desired length of the sleeve).

DON’T fasten off and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 17 that begins the cuff originates from attached yarn point.