Looking for a stylish and versatile crochet cardigan pattern free? Explore the Rhea V-neck Cardigan crochet pattern and learn how to crochet a beautiful and cozy cardigan. Elevate your wardrobe with your own handmade creation!
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Introduction – Crochet Cardigan Pattern Free
Are you ready to take your crochet skills to the next level and add a touch of your unique style to your wardrobe? Get ready to start a creative journey with the Rhea V-neck Crochet Cardigan.
Imagine the feeling of wearing something you’ve made yourself, tailored to your taste and personality. It’s an empowering experience that lets you showcase your creativity and talent.
In a world filled with mass-produced clothing, there’s something truly special about donning a handmade garment that reflects your individuality.
Crocheting your own cardigan allows you to choose the colors, fit, and style that resonate with you. It’s an opportunity to express your personal fashion sense and stand out from the crowd.
The Perfect Crochet Cardigan Pattern Free for Any Occasion
The Rhea V-neck Cardigan is not just a regular cardigan – it’s a versatile fashion statement. Picture yourself stepping out in style, pairing this elegant crochet garment with your favorite jeans or a flowy summer dress.
The V-neck design adds a touch of sophistication, while the half double crochet stitch worked under three loops creates a beautifully textured fabric. It’s a cardigan that will effortlessly elevate any outfit and keep you feeling comfortable and stylish all day long.
The beauty of the Rhea V-neck Cardigan is its adaptability to various occasions. Whether you’re heading to the office, meeting friends for a casual outing, or attending a special event, this cardigan has got you covered.
It’s a wardrobe staple that transitions seamlessly from season to season, offering both warmth and style. You’ll love the way it enhances your overall look and brings a sense of confidence to your day.
Versatile Construction and Stylish Details
Let’s talk about the construction of the Rhea V-neck Cardigan. The top-down raglan technique allows you to customize the fit as you go, ensuring a cardigan that hugs your body in all the right places.
The unique V-neckline adds an element of elegance and showcases your neckline beautifully. And let’s not forget about the three buttons that complete the look, adding a polished and refined touch to your handmade creation.
The beauty of the top-down construction is that you can try on your cardigan as you work, making adjustments to ensure the perfect fit. It’s like having a tailor-made garment without the hassle of multiple seams and alterations.
The raglan increases shape the yoke, creating a flattering silhouette, while subtle waist shaping adds a touch of femininity. The result is a cardigan that feels like it was made just for you.
Enjoy the Beauty of the Rhea V-neck Cardigan
The Rhea V-neck Cardigan comes in a range of 9 sizes, ensuring that there’s a perfect fit for everyone. Choose the finished bust circumference closest to your measurements, and with the recommended ease of -1 to 0 inches, you’ll have a cardigan that flatters your figure.
As you work with Slavicayarns Vesna yarn, you’ll fall in love with its softness and the way it drapes beautifully, creating a cardigan that’s as comfortable as it is stylish.
The choice of yarn plays a significant role in the overall look and feel of your cardigan. Slavicayarns Vesna yarn offers the perfect blend of luxury and practicality.
The combination of superwash merino, baby alpaca, and silk creates a yarn that is soft, lightweight, and cozy. It’s a pleasure to work with, gliding smoothly on your hook, and creating a fabric that feels heavenly against your skin.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q: Is the Rhea V-neck Cardigan suitable for beginners?
A: While this pattern is designed for intermediate crocheters, adventurous beginners who are comfortable with basic crochet stitches and techniques can also take on this project. Don’t be afraid to challenge yourself and give it a try!
Q: Can I customize the length of the cardigan?
A: Absolutely! The beauty of the Rhea V-neck Cardigan is that it’s easily customizable. Whether you prefer a cropped style that hits at the waist or a longer cardigan that falls below the hips, you have the freedom to adjust the length to your preference. Make it uniquely yours!
OTHER CROCHET GARMENTS YOU MIGHT LOVE
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RHEA V-NECK CROCHET CARDIGAN PATTERN FREE
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2018-2024 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The v-neck cardigan you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.
Materials & Tools:
- Yarn Slavicayarns Vesna 115g = 460m (504yds), 60% SW Merino, 20% Baby Alpaca, 20% Silk.
861(1011, 1105, 1148, 1259)(1385, 1493, 1658, 1752)m
942(1106.5, 1209, 1256, 1377.5)(1516, 1634, 1814, 1917)yds
Note that yardage may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.
- Hook size 3mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
- Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends),
- Scissors,
- Stitch markers,
- 3 buttons.
Level:
Intermediate
Sizes:
1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8, 9)
Finished measurements:
Measurements given are for the finished garment. Recommended ease is -1 to 0”/-2.5 to 0 cm.
To pick your best size, measure your full bust and pick the finished bust circumference closest to that number.
A: Bust circumference (including V-neck gap)
79(84, 89, 94, 99)(104, 109, 115, 120)cm
31(33, 35, 37, 39)(41, 43, 45, 47)”
B: Upper sleeve circumference
30.5 (31.5, 33, 34, 35)(38.5, 40, 42, 45.5)cm
12 (12.4, 13, 13.4, 13.8)(15.2, 15.7, 16.5, 18)”
C: Back neck to underarm
14.5 (15, 16, 16.5, 17)(18.5, 19.5, 20.5, 21)cm
5.75 (6, 6.25, 6.5, 6.75)(7.25, 7.75, 8, 8.25)”
D: Hem to underarm
22 (22, 23, 23, 24)(24, 24, 25, 25)cm
8.75 (8.75, 9, 9, 9.5)(9.5, 9.5, 10, 10)”
E: Sleeve length
27(27, 29, 29, 31)(31, 31, 33, 33)cm
10.5(10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 12)(12, 12, 13)”
F: Waist circumference
64(66, 70, 76, 78)(84, 86, 90, 96)cm
25(26, 27.5, 30, 30.5)(33, 33.75, 35.25, 38)”
Sample pictured is a size 4 on a model with a 37″[94 cm] bust, worn with 0″[0cm] of positive ease.
Gauge after blocking:
20 sts and 19 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) using 3mm hook with hdc worked under three loops.
If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.
General Notes:
- The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- Sweater is worked from the top down with raglan and deep V-neck shaping.
- Stitch marker placement: When instructed to place your marker, place on the last st worked unless otherwise instructed. It should lie on a stitch, not between stitches.
- The yoke is worked top down in rows.
- The lower body is worked top down in rows. You will then add the hem in rows, joining them to the body as you go.
- The sleeves are worked top down in unturned rounds. You will then add the cuffs in rows, joining them to the sleeves as you go.
- The length of the sleeves is easily adjustable.
- When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
BOR – beginning of the row/round
BLsc – back loop only single crochet
yo – yarn over
hdc – half double crochet – yo, insert hook under three loops, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all three loops.
hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together) – yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
M – marker
PM – place marker
sp – space
sk – skip
beg – beginning
prev – previous
RS – right ride
WS – wrong side
PATTERN
YOKE
Neckband
How to start your crochet project with a crochet ribbing TUTORIAL HERE.
With 3mm hook ch8.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.
You should have 7 stitches in each of neckband’s rows.
Repeat Row 2 75 (79, 80, 89, 90)(97, 102, 109, 129) times for a total of 77 (81, 82, 91, 92)(99, 104, 111, 113) rows.
Don’t join the first and last row and don’t break the yarn.
Marker set up (RS):
With 3mm hook make ch1 (does not count as a st) and sc in first neckband’s row, sc in next 4(4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 7, 7, 7) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 37(39, 40, 43, 44)(47, 48, 51, 53) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 5(5, 5, 6, 6)(7, 8, 8, 8) neckband’s rows.
These raglan markers indicate divisions between front right, right sleeve, back, left sleeve and front left sections.
After this row you should have (excludes 4Ms) 37(39, 40, 43, 44)(47, 48, 51, 53)sts on back, 13(14, 14, 16, 16)(17, 18, 20, 21)sts on each sleeve sections and 5(5, 5, 6, 6)(7, 8, 8, 8)sts on each front sections.
Next rows:
In this part of the yoke you will be working two sets of shaping AT THE SAME TIME: raglan shaping in each row and neckline shaping in every 4th row starting from row 1.
Row 1 (neckline shaping): ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in first st, 2hdc in next st, [hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep until last M, hdc in each st until 2sts remain, 2hdc in next st, hdc in last st. Turn.
Row 2: ch2, [hdc in each st to next M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep until last M, hdc in each st to end. Turn.
Rows 3 – 4: Repeat Row 2
Repeat Rows 1 – 4 until Row 17(20, 23, 24, 26)(25, 28, 30, 31) ending with repeat of Row 1(2, 2, 2, 2)(1, 2, 2, 2).
After the last repeat of Row 1 or Row 2, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 47(54, 60, 64, 68)(67, 74, 80, 83)sts; on each front sides: 26(30, 34, 36, 39)(39, 43, 46, 47)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.
ALL SIZES EXCEPT FOR SIZE 5:
NEXT, you will be increasing just a sleeve sections, whilst continuing neckline shaping.
Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, 2hdc in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Work above Next row 4(2, 1, 0, -)(2, 0, 0, 2) more times.
After your last row, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 57(60, 64, 66, 68)(73, 76, 82, 89)sts; on each front sides: 27(31, 35, 37, 39)(39, 44, 46, 48)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.
ALL SIZES:
NEXT, you will be working JUST a neckline shaping.
Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, [1hdc in M (reposition M), hdc in each st to next M] rep until last M, 1hdc in M (reposition M), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Work above Next row 6(6, 5, 5, 6)(6, 8, 8, 6) more times.
After your last row, you should have on back 71(79, 86, 91, 96)(97, 104, 111, 115)sts; on each sleeves: 57(60, 64, 66, 68)(73, 76, 82, 89)sts; on each front sides: 28(32, 36, 38, 40)(41, 46, 48, 49)sts, plus 4 raglan sts.
SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES
Next the body and sleeves are separated.
NOTE: Continue to work neckline shaping every 4th row while working the following section.
Next row: ch2, hdc in each st to next M working neckline shaping as necessary, hdc in M (remove M), ch5(ch3, ch2, ch2, ch2)(ch5, ch3, ch2, ch2), sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5(ch3, ch2, ch2, ch2)(ch5, ch3, ch2, ch2), sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
LOWER BODY
Lower body is worked in rows of hdcs till work measures 14(14, 15, 15, 16)(16, 16, 17, 17)cm/ 5.5(5.5, 6, 6, 6.25)(6.25, 6.25, 6.75, 6,75)” from underarm.
When you come to underarm chains, work regular hdc in each chain until end of the underarm. Continue neckline shaping (every 4th row).
Row 1: ch2 (doesn’t count as a stitch here and throughout), hdc in each ch and st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Repeat Row 1 9(6, 6, 6, 5)(7, 4, 4, 6) more times.
In the following section, you will be working two sets of shaping AT THE SAME TIME: continue neckline shaping (every 4th row) and waist shaping.
You can also continue to work without waist shaping.
Waist shaping pattern:
Row 1 (decrease row): ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary and working six decreases (hdc2tog six times) evenly. Turn.
Row 2 – 3: ch2, hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary. Turn.
Repeat Rows 1-3 4(5, 6, 6, 7)(6, 7, 8, 7) more times.
SIZE 5, SIZE 6, SIZE 8, DON’T WORK FOLLOWING SECTION UNTIL HEM.
Next row: ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across to end working neckline shaping as necessary and working two decreases (hdc2tog two times) evenly. Turn.
Repeat above Next row 1(1, 0, 0,-)(-, 0, -, 0) more times.
HEM
How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.
The hem is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 3mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch17, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [16sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Don’t fasten off.
Buttonhole band
Turn a quarter, ch1 (dosn’t count as a st) and work with sc evenly along the first front edge up to neck opening, turn.
Next row (WS): ch1, sc across until the bottom. Turn.
Buttonhole row (RS): ch1, sc in next 2sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in next 4sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in next 4sts, ch2, sk next 2sts, sc in each st to neck opening. Turn.
Next row (WS): ch1, sc in each st working 2sc in each ch-2sp across until the bottom. Turn.
Next row (RS): ch1, sc across until neck opening. Turn.
Fasten off.
Button band
With RS facing, attach the yarn at the neck opening of the second front edge and work with sc evenly up to the bottom, turn.
Next Row: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in each st across. Turn.
Repeat last row three more times.
Fasten off.
SLEEVES (Both worked the same):
Sleeves are worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs.
With RS facing you, attach main Yarn with slst in a central space in the underarm to begin working around.
Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round)
Continue with Round 1making one hdc2tog decrease round every 4th round 4(4, 5, 5, 5)(5, 5, 6, 6) times, then every 3th round 4(4, 4, 4, 5)(5, 5, 5, 5) times. Reposition BOR as you go.
Work rounds of hdc and decreases till work measures 19(19, 21, 21, 23)(23, 23, 25, 25)cm/ 7.5(7.5, 8.25, 8.25, 9)(9, 9, 9.75, 9.75)” from underarm (or 8cm/3” short of desired length of the sleeve).
DON’T fasten off and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 17 that begins the cuff originates from attached yarn point.
CUFF
How to add a crochet ribbing at the end TUTORIAL HERE.
The cuffs are worked in rows and attached to the sleeve as you go. Continue with 3mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch17, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [16sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your sweater to measurements. Sew up underarm holes if necessary.
Sew on buttons to match the button holes.
If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com
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