Updated: 2 September 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)
This crochet shrug started with a stitch pattern I couldn’t stop reaching for.
The wave pattern from my Kalinda Shawl just kept popping up in my mind for other projects. Then Meadow Lace Shrug did so well, and I thought, why not put that same stitch into a shrug?
So that’s what I did. One rectangle, folded up and seamed into arm openings, using a stitch I already knew people loved. No sleeve shaping to mess with, no fitting stuff to second-guess, just one long piece worked in ribbing and lace, then folded into place.
That’s honestly what makes it such a good layer too. The lace is open enough to breathe, so it sits light on your shoulders instead of weighing you down. And with three-quarter sleeves, it stays out of your way, whether you’re reaching for something or just walking with your arms crossed against the wind.
The full free pattern is right below, so scroll down whenever you’re ready.
Want an ad-free, printable PDF with the stitch charts instead? You can grab that on Etsy or Ravelry, totally optional though.
This Crochet Shrug Is Made from One Simple Rectangle
Rectangle construction is one of the easier places to start if garment shaping usually throws you off. No armhole decreases to count, no short rows, nothing where you have to picture some 3D shape coming together while you’re still working flat.
You just crochet a long strip, watching the ribbing and lace pattern repeat as you go, and the “shrug” part only happens at the very end. Fold it, seam a bit on each side, done. If something’s off with the fit, you catch it in one spot instead of digging through rows trying to find where it went wrong.
And if you need to put it down for a while, that’s easy too. No tricky spot to remember, just pick your hook back up and keep going whenever you’re ready.
Making This Crochet Shrug Your Own
The pattern math looks a little technical at first, but it’s simpler than it seems. Every 16 rows you add to Ribbing 1 makes the shrug noticeably wider, so if you want extra room, just keep adding sets of 16 until it looks right on your gauge swatch.
Length works the same way, just in the Main Body section instead. Each repeat of Rows 1 through 8 adds a bit more length, so if you’re making this for someone taller or just want more coverage, work a few extra repeats before you move on to Ribbing 2.
Cuffs are easy to play with too. The Sleeves section already tells you how to add extra chains for longer cuffs, so if you run cold, that’s an easy way to get more coverage around your wrists without changing anything else in the pattern.
And of course, color is where you really get to make this yours. A solid neutral like the sample keeps the lace pattern front and center, while something variegated or speckled adds a completely different look without changing a single stitch.
More Free Crochet Shrug & Cardigan Patterns
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NALU CROCHET SHRUG FREE PATTERN
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch charts here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2020 – 2026 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The crochet cardigan pattern you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.
As a bonus in the ad-free, printable PDF, I’ve provided stitch charts. If you’re a visual learner or if you just want to support my work you can purchase this crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry. Thank you and I hope you find it useful!
Materials & Tools:
- Yarn DROPS Nord 50g = 170 m, 45% Alpaca, 30% Polyamide, 25% Wool, 5 skeins.
- Hook size 3.5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
- Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends).
- Scissors.
Level:
Adventurous beginner/ Intermediate
Size after blocking (adjustable):
Length from top of neck, to bottom of shrug is 59cm with ribbed collar (it stretches slightly downward when worn).
Width is 85cm from end of sleeve to end of sleeve.
This pattern fits S-L. You can easily adjust the pattern to suite your body by creating a longer/shorter Ribbing 1 (multiple of 16 plus 15 rows) and crocheting for more/less pattern repeats in Main Body section.
Gauge after blocking:
For a rectangle with 31 rows of Ribbing 1, 10 rows in Main Body and 31 rows of Ribbing 2 the length is 17.5cm/6.9” and the width is 15cm/5.9”.
If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.
Before you measure, please take the time to wash and block your swatch in the same manner that you will wash and block your shrug.
Notes:
- The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- This shrug is constructed from one large rectangle worked from the bottom up and seamed to create armholes.
- Cuffs around the armholes are worked directly into the main shrug instead of creating a ribbed piece and sewing it on.
- Pattern is a multiple of 16 plus 15 stitches. To increase the width of the shrug, increase the number of rows in the Ribbing 1 section. To decrease the width of the shrug, decrease the number of rows in the Ribbing 1 section.
- You can make this shrug as long as you like by adding or substracting pattern repeats between ribbings.
- You can also use yarn in different weights, but just know that the width will be different depending on your gauge.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
- The pattern includes the stitch charts.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
BLsc – back loop single crochet
BLhdc – back loop half double crochet
BLdc – back loop double crochet
BLtr – back loop treble crochet
yo – yarn over
sp – space
sk – skip
prev – previous
beg – beginning
PATTERN
Ribbing 1
With 3.5 mm hook work ch9.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), BLsc across to end. Turn.
You should have 8 stitches in each row.
Repeat Row 2 173 more times for a total of 175 rows or until desired length.
Remember that the pattern is a multiple of 16 plus 15 stitches, so in your Ribbing 1 section you should have multiple of 16 plus 15 rows.
Don’t break the yarn and rotate your work.
Main body
In the following Setup row every stitch will be working in each ribbing’s row.
Setup row (WS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), sc in first ribbing’s row, hdc in next 2 ribbing’s rows, dc in next 3 ribbing’s rows, tr in next 3 ribbing’s rows, dc in next 3 ribbing’s rows, hdc in next 2 ribbing’s rows, sc in next ribbing’s row, [sc in next 2 ribbing’s rows, hdc in next 2 ribbing’s rows, dc in next 3 ribbing’s rows, tr in next 3 ribbing’s rows, dc in next 3 ribbing’s rows, hdc in next 2 ribbing’s rows, sc in next ribbing’s row] rep across to end. Turn.
Row 1 (RS): ch3 (counts as a dc), BLdc in each st across until last st remain, dc in last st. Turn.
Row 2 (WS): ch5 (counts as tr and ch1), sk second st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, tr in next st, [ch1, sk next st, tr in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, tr in next st] rep across to end. Turn.
Row 3 (RS): ch5 (counts as tr and ch1), sk first ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st, [ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st] rep across to end. Turn.
Row 4 (WS): ch3 (counts as a dc), dc in each ch-1sp and st across to end. Turn.
Row 5 (RS): Repeat Row 1
Row 6 (WS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, tr in next st, ch1, sk next st, tr in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, sc in next st, [ch1, sk next st, sc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, tr in next st, ch1, sk next st, tr in next st, ch1, sk next st, dc in next st, ch1, sk next st, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next st, sc in next st] rep across to end. Turn.
Row 7 (RS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st, [ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, tr in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, dc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, hdc in next st, ch1, sk next ch-1sp, sc in next st] rep across to end. Turn.
Row 8 (WS): Repeat Row 4
Repeat Rows 1 – 8 five more times or until desired length
Next, Repeat Rows 1 – 4.
Last Row (RS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st), tr in first st, BLdc in next 3sts, BLhdc in next 2sts, BLsc in next 3sts, BLhdc in next 2sts, BLdc in next 3sts, [BLtr in next 3sts, BLdc in next 3sts, BLhdc in next 2sts, BLsc in next 3sts, BLhdc in next 2sts, BLdc in next 3sts] rep across until last st remain, tr in last st. Turn.
Ribbing 2
This ribbing 2 is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 3.5mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch9, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across to end. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [8sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your ribbing is joined to the entire edge.
Don’t break the yarn.
Make one row of single crochet across the both shorter edges.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block the rectangle to the measurements .
Creating arm holes
Place piece flat on the floor as pictured in Progress Pictures section below. Fold the corners of the body piece into the center. Use Mattress Stitch (or different joinig method you like) to join the arm edges together, approx. 12 cm in on each side. The part that is not sewn will be the opening for the armholes. Tie off and weave in ends.
Sleeves
Now, we will add a ribbed cuffs to both armholes of the shrug.
Row 1: Pick any place on the edge of the armhole opening and attach your yarn with a slip stitch. Work 9 chains, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of armhole opening. Join to the next st of the armhole opening using slst and work one more slst in the next st of armhole opening (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across to end. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [8sts]. Join to the next st of the edge of armhole opening using slst and work one more slst in the next st of armhole opening (2 slst in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Row 2-3 until you reach Row 1. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.
Repeat for the second sleeve
You can also make longer cuffs by adding extra chains.
If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com
Click HERE to find my picture tutorial on how to attach a ribbed cuffs to your piece.
PROGRESS PICTURES
FAQ
Is the Nalu Shrug good for beginners?
Yeah, definitely. It’s a great pick if you want to try lace crocheting for the first time. The instructions are pretty straightforward, and once you get into it, the stitch pattern just repeats itself, so it clicks fast.
Can I use different yarn or a different weight?
Yeah, just try to match the gauge as closely as you can. Switching yarn weight will shift your finished size, so swatch first to get a rough idea of what width you’re working with. Something with good stitch definition will also really let that lace pattern shine.
How do I seam the armhole openings?
You’ll seam it to create the armholes. Mattress stitch works great, but honestly, use whatever seaming method you’re already comfortable with. The pattern walks you through it either way.
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