Updated: 2 September 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)
This tutorial started with a mustard pillow I couldn’t stop thinking about.
I had this vision stuck in my head, mustard background, ecru flowers, clean color blocks with no bulk on the back. That vision turned into my Dahlia Pillow, and the technique behind it became one of my favorite ways to play with color.
I called it intarsia crochet back then, because that’s just what most crocheters call it. Quick heads up before we jump into the tutorial though, because a few of you have called this out, and you’re kind of right.
A Quick Note on the Name
Some crocheters have pointed out that what I’m showing you here isn’t technically intarsia, and honestly, they’ve got a point. Real intarsia uses separate bobbins for each color block, no yarn ever carried across the back.
What you’re about to learn is closer to stranded colorwork, same family as Fair Isle in knitting. The yarn you’re not using just floats along the back instead of sitting on its own little bobbin.
I’m sticking with “intarsia crochet” here anyway, because that’s how most of the crochet world talks about this technique, and it’s probably how you found your way to this post. But you deserve to know what’s actually going on, so now you do. Call it whatever makes sense to you, the technique works the same no matter what you name it.
What Is Intarsia Crochet?
Basically, this technique lets you work with separate blocks of color without dragging the unused yarn through every single stitch like you’d do with tapestry crochet. The strands just hang out on the back, floating, waiting for their turn.
Simple idea, but it makes a big difference. Your fabric stays light instead of turning stiff and bulky.
Honestly, what gets me excited is how much you can do with it. Bold shapes, pixel-style patterns, big blocks of color, whatever’s in your head, this technique can probably get you there.
Grab a hook, pick two colors, and just go for it. Once you see those color blocks click into place, you’ll get why I love this so much.
Intarsia vs. Tapestry Crochet
People mix these up all the time, so here’s the quick version.
Tapestry crochet: you carry the unused yarn through every single stitch, so it gets locked into the fabric as you go. Works fine, but the fabric ends up thicker and stiffer.
Intarsia crochet: the unused strands just float on the back and only get picked up when you actually need them again. Keeps things light and smooth, which is great once you’re working with bigger color blocks.
My favorite part? The back stays clean even when the front is doing something bold.
Free Intarsia Crochet Patterns
Before jumping into the tutorial, let’s talk inspiration!
These free patterns are perfect for trying out intarsia crochet:
Both use the technique with unused colors floating along the back for a clean finish.
Once your pieces are done, you’ll seam them together with mattress stitch, which keeps the seam flat and nearly invisible.
Watch the Video Tutorial and Grab the Diagram
The video walks you through the whole thing step by step, way easier to follow than just photos.
There’s also a downloadable PDF with the diagram, good to keep open on your phone or tablet while you work.
Quick tip: if the video’s being weird, try turning off your ad blocker.
INTARSIA CROCHET CHART
Notes:
- The most important thing: 1 square equals 1 single crochet (sc).
- On the right side of your project, all tails should remain on the wrong side of your work.
- On the wrong side of your project, keep all tails on the wrong side, positioned in front of you.
- When working the right side of your project, read the chart from right to left.
- When working the wrong side of your project, read the chart from left to right.
For Left-Handed Crocheters
You can totally do this too! Just remember to read the chart in the opposite directions – left to right for the right side rows and right to left for the wrong side rows.
INTARSIA CROCHET TUTORIAL
Yarn A is mustard and Yarn B is ecru.
Step 1: Start with Yarn A
Take your mustard yarn (Yarn A) and make a slip knot. Chain 23 stitches, then add 1 extra for turning. This gives you 24 chains in total.
Step 2: Build Your Base Rows
Work 1 single crochet stitch (sc) in each chain across. That’s it! You’ve just finished the first single row. Nice work – this will be the base for your colorwork technique.
Step 3: Let’s Add Color Changes
Now comes the fun part! Look at your intarsia crochet chart for Row 3. It starts with one mustard block (Yarn A), then switches to an ecru block (Yarn B). Here’s how to change colors smoothly:
a. When you get to the last stitch of the mustard block, don’t finish it – leave two loops on your hook.
b. Grab your new yarn color (Yarn B) and wrap it over the hook.
c. Pull Yarn B through the two loops to finish the stitch.
As you work with Yarn B, let Yarn A float along the back of your work, as shown in the photo. This keeps the unused strand ready for the next color section without adding unnecessary weight.
Helpful Tip: Keep your floats (the unused strands) loose but not too loose. You want them to lie flat along the back of the piece without pulling the fabric.
Step 4: Keep Following the Chart
Keep working through Row 3, switching colors when the chart tells you to. In this row, you’ll only use one ecru block before going back to mustard (Yarn A).
Repeat the same steps for each next row, always checking your chart to see where each color block goes.
Helpful Tip: Let the unused yarn flow naturally along the back of your work. There’s no need to cut or reattach strands for every color change – just pick up the unused color as needed.
According to the chart you should work only one ecru block and then change color in the same way.
Step 5: Finish Strong
Keep working row by row until you’ve completed all 21 rows. By the time you’re done, you’ll have a gorgeous design made with clean colorwork patterns. Doesn’t that sound amazing?
The back of your work will look something like this:
You can also follow written instructions:
Make ch 24 with Yarn A.
Row 1: with Yarn A sc in second st from the hook and in each ch across . Turn.
Row 2: with Yarn A ch 1 (doesn`t count as sc here and throughout), sc in each hdc across, turn,
Row 3: ch 1and sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B, sc 6 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 3 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 6 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B and sc 1 with Yarn A.Turn.
Row 4: ch 1 and sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 4 with Yarn A, sc 4 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 4 with Yarn B, sc 4 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B. Turn.
Row 5: ch 1 and sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B, sc 5 with Yarn A, sc 4 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 4 with Yarn B, sc 5 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 6: ch 1 and sc 7 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 7 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 7: ch 1 and sc 4 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 4 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 8: ch 1 and sc 3 with Yarn A, sc 5 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 5 with Yarn B, sc 3 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 9: ch 1 and sc 3 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 2 with Yarn A, sc 1 with Yarn B, sc 2 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 3 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 10: ch 1 and sc 4 with Yarn A, sc 5 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 3 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 5 with Yarn B, sc 4 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 11: ch 1 and sc9 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 1 with Yarn A, sc 2 with Yarn B, sc 9 with Yarn A. Turn.
Row 12: Repeat Row 10.
Row 13: Repeat Row 9.
Row 14: Repeat Row 8.
Row 15: Repeat Row 7.
Row 16: Repeat Row 6.
Row 17: Repeat Row 5.
Row 18: Repeat Row 4.
Row 19: Repeat Row 3.
Row 20: Repeat Row 2.
Row 21: Repeat Row 2.
If you have any questions, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com
Made something with this technique? I’d genuinely love to see it. Drop a photo in the comments, or tag me on Pinterest so I can check it out.
Got questions along the way? Ask them in the comments too, I read every single one.
If this tutorial helped, sharing it helps other crocheters find it. Just click one of the share buttons below.
Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs)
Can beginners try intarsia crochet?
Yes, for sure. Start with a small project and just practice the color changes. Once you get the hang of keeping the back neat, it clicks fast.
How do I manage more than two colors?
Keep the unused strands floating along the back, same as with two colors. If things start feeling tangled, winding smaller yarn butterflies or using bobbins for each color helps keep everything organized.
Why does my colorwork look puckered or too tight?
Usually it’s tension. Try not to pull the yarn tight when you switch colors, keep it relaxed. A quick practice swatch before starting your real project helps you find the right tension.
How long should my floats be before I secure them?
If a color section is small, keep the float short and snug against the back. For anything wider than a few stitches, crochet a stitch around the float partway through to keep it from hanging loose.
Is this really intarsia, or something else?
Technically it’s closer to stranded colorwork, the crochet version of Fair Isle. Check out the note near the top of this post for the full explanation.
MORE CROCHET PRO TECHNIQUES
If you found this tutorial helpful, you might also like posts:
- How to foundation single crochet
- How to do a Russian Join
- How to double crochet 2 row at once
- How to Crochet an Invisible Decrease
- How to crochet standing stitches
- How to crochet ribbing
Don’t forget to save this Pin for easy reference: 📌
Thank you for using photos instead of a video. I have internet issues and cannot watch videos online very often. This tutorial is very easy to follow. I plan to make the pillow covering for the guest room bed. This reminds me so much of things my grandparents had in their homes. I love vintage and this will fit in perfectly.
I’m glad you find this tutorial helpful.
Stunning. I’m definately going to try this. Maybe for the front panel of a handbag
Muy buenas explicación. Videos complementando.
Great job on the tutorial!
Thank you so much!
Hai thank you for making this tutorial intarsia crochet. Its very easy to follow.
Beautiful pillow and great tutorial. I will surely try making it 🙂
Thank you!
Very nice tutorial, but strictly speaking this is stranded or Fair Isle crochet rather than Intarsia crochet. Intarsia is work with a separate ball of yarn or each area of color and unused colors are not floated across the back.
Thank you! I was so confused.
Thank you for the pictorial tutorials. I am finding it much easier to follow then videos. In this period of extended isolation, I am enjoying learning new skills. Thanks
Thank you so much. I have been trying to do a Fair Isle crocheted blanket. I have searched the internet trying to find out how I do it in rows and the only information I can, before now, is in rounds.
This has really helped.
Michelle