Are you ready to step up your crochet game and create a stylish and cozy garment that will become your wardrobe favorite? This classic Pocket Raglan Sweater Crochet Pattern FREE is specially designed for crocheters seeking a rewarding challenge.
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Welcome to the World of Crochet Sweater Magic
Step into the world of crochet fashion and unlock your creative potential with the Pocket Raglan Sweater Crochet pattern. As a crochet enthusiast, you understand the joy of crafting something truly special.
Today, I am thrilled to introduce you to my first true crochet garment – the Pocket Raglan Sweater.
This pattern release is a significant milestone for me, and I am bursting with excitement to share it with you.
Get ready to start a journey of creativity, self-expression, and the pure satisfaction of wearing a handmade masterpiece.
A Dream Realized: The Pocket Raglan Sweater Story
Designing my own crochet sweater has always been a cherished dream. I envisioned a garment that combines style, comfort, and the undeniable charm of handmade.
The road to making this dream a reality was not without its challenges. Hours of calculations, countless swatches, and unwavering determination brought me to this moment.
The Pocket Raglan Sweater is the culmination of my passion for crochet and the fulfillment of a long-held aspiration.
With every stitch, I poured my heart and soul into creating a pattern that is as delightful to make as it is to wear.
Crafting the Perfect Raglan Sweater
The Pocket Raglan Sweater is a true delight to crochet. Designed for intermediate crocheters, it offers an exciting opportunity to expand your skills while creating a versatile and fashionable garment.
Worked seamlessly from the top down, this pattern allows you to enjoy the rhythmic flow of crochet stitches.
The simple yet sophisticated combination of half double crochet worked under three loops and single crochet stitches creates a beautiful fabric that is both cozy and stylish.
The raglan construction adds a touch of elegance and ensures a comfortable fit, while the seamless design eliminates the need for tedious seaming.
Customizing Your Sweater
One of the greatest joys of crochet is the ability to infuse your creations with your personal touch.
With the Pocket Raglan Sweater, you have the freedom to customize the length of the body and sleeves, allowing you to tailor the fit to your liking.
Whether you prefer a relaxed, oversized look or a more fitted silhouette, this pattern provides the flexibility to create a sweater that perfectly complements your style and body.
Additionally, you can experiment with different yarn choices to achieve the desired drape and texture, giving your sweater a unique character that reflects your individuality.
Frequently Asked Questions
Q1: Is the Pocket Raglan Sweater suitable for beginners?
A1: While this pattern is designed with intermediate crocheters in mind, adventurous beginners with basic crochet skills can certainly give it a try. Clear instructions, step-by-step guidance, and familiar stitches make it a great project to expand your crochet horizons and gain confidence in garment making.
Q2: How much ease does the sweater have?
A2: The Pocket Raglan Sweater is designed with 4-5 inches of positive ease at the bust, ensuring a comfortable and flattering fit. This relaxed fit allows for ease of movement and makes it a cozy addition to your wardrobe.
Q3: Can I personalize the sweater with different yarn colors?
A3: Absolutely! The beauty of the Pocket Raglan Sweater lies in its versatility. Feel free to explore various yarn colors and combinations to create a sweater that reflects your unique style and personality. Let your creativity run wild and make a statement with your own color choices.
Are you ready to begin this crochet journey and create your own stylish Pocket Raglan Sweater?
Grab your yarn, hook, and imagination, and let’s bring this dream to life.
The satisfaction of wearing a garment you’ve crafted with your own hands is truly unparalleled. Let the crochet magic begin!
OTHER FREE CROCHET WEARABLE PATTERN YOU MIGHT LOVE
If you want to share your wips and finished crochet raglan sweater on social media, please, use hashtag #mycrochetory or #pocketraglansweater. I love to see your finished project!
FREE POCKET RAGLAN SWEATER CROCHET PATTERN
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with SHORT ROWS PICTURE TUTORIAL here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2018-2024 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The sweater you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.
As a bonus in the ad-free, printable PDF, I’ve provided SHORT ROWS PICTURE TUTORIAL. If you’re a visual learner or if you just want to support my work you can purchase this raglan sweater crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry.
Thank you and I hope you find it useful!
Materials & Tools:
- Yarn SCHEEPJES Our Tribe 100g = 420m, 70% Merino Superwash and 30% Polyamide.
Yarn A: shade 877 Raspberry Radiance 2 (2, 2, 2, 2)(3, 3, 3) skeins
Yarn B: shade 880 Silver Birch 2 (2, 2, 2, 2)(3, 3, 3) skeins
Note that quantity of skeins may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.
- Hook size 2.5mm annd 3.5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
- Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends and to seam),
- Scissors,
- Stitch markers.
Level:
Intermediate.
Gauge after blocking:
17 sts and 16 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) using 3.5mm hook with hdc worked under three loops.
If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.
Sizes:
1 (2, 3, 4, 5)(6, 7, 8)
Finished measurements:
Measurements given are for the finished garment. This sweater is designed to fit with 4-5” [10-12 cm] of positive ease at the bust.
A: Bust circumference
90.5 (96.5, 101.5, 106.5, 111.5)(116.5, 121.5, 127)cm
35.5 (38, 40, 42, 44)(46, 48, 50)”
B: Upper sleeve circumference
28 (29, 30.5, 32, 33)(37, 42, 43)cm
11 (11.5, 12, 12.5, 13)(14.5, 16.5, 17)”
C: Back neck to underarm
19 (20.3, 21.5, 23, 24)(24, 26.5, 28)cm
7.5 (8, 8.5, 9, 9.5)(9.5, 10.5, 11)”
D: Hem to underarm
30 (30, 32, 32, 32)(37, 37, 37)cm
11.5(11.5, 12.5, 12.5, 12.5)(14.5, 14.5, 14.5)”
E: Sleeve length
26(26, 28, 28, 30)(33, 33, 33))cm
10.5(10.5,11, 11, 11.5)(13, 13, 13) ”
Sample pictured is a size 5 on a model with a 39″[99 cm] bust, worn with 5″[12 cm] of positive ease.
Notes:
- The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- Sweater is worked from the top down with raglan shaping.
- Stitch marker placement: When instructed to place your marker, place on the last st worked unless instructed. It should lie on a stitch, not between stitches.
- The yoke is worked in TURNED rounds.
- Pay special attention to increases in the yoke. Some rounds increase only sleeves while the other increase the front/back sections.
- To make the beginning of new round in the yoke as less visible as possibile the BOR marker is placed in the raglan point on back.
- The lower body and sleeves are worked top down in UNTURNED rounds. You will then add the hem and cuffs in rows, joining them to the body as you go.
- The length of the body and sleeves is easily adjustable.
- When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
BOR – beginning of the row/round
BLsc – back loop only single crochet
yo – yarn over
hdc – half double crochet – yo, insert hook under three loops, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all three loops. Visit my tutorial HERE.
hdc2tog (half double crochet 2 together) – yo, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through all 4 loops.
linked hdc – yo, insert hook in ch1-sp on the edge of prev short row, yo, draw up aloop, insert hook in same st where slst was made, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull yarn through all four loops on the hook.
M – marker
PM – place marker
sp – space
sk – skip
beg – beginning
prev – previous
RS – right ride
WS – wrong side
PATTERN
YOKE
Neckband
With 2.5mm hook and Yarn 1, ch8.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
You should have 7 sc stitches in each of neckband’s rows.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.
Repeat row 2 92(94, 106, 110, 116)(118, 128, 134) times for a total of 94(96, 108, 112, 118)(120, 130, 136) rows.
Use slip stitches to join last and first row together. Don’t break the yarn.
Marker set up (RS):
With 3.5mm hook make ch1 (does not count as a st) and sc in first neckband’s row, place BOR marker, sc in next 15(15,17,18,19)(19,21,22) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 36(37,41,42,44)(45,48,50) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 15(15,17,18,19)(19,21,22) neckband’s rows, sc in next neckband’s row, PM, sc in next 24(25,29,30,32)(33,36,38) neckband’s rows. Slst to the first sc to close the round.
These raglan markers indicate divisions between right sleeve, front, left sleeve, and back sections.
SHORT ROWS (shaping back)
Short row 1: ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), 2 regular hdcs in the same st, mark the first made hdc as a BOR, regular hdc in next 3(3,3,3,4)(4,4,5)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, regular hdc in each st to BOR,
3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), regular hdc in the same st as prev BOR, regular hdc in each st to next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs),
regular hdc in next 3(3,3,3,4)(4,4,5)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, regular hdc in each st to M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), regular hdc in each st untilBOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR).
TIP: Mark ch1-sp on the edge of every short row for easy stitch count.
Short row 2: hdc in next 6(6,7,7,8)(8,8,9)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst), hdc in next 3(3,3,3,3)(3,4,4)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to BOR,
3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), hdc in each st until next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), in next 6(6,7,7,8)(8,8,9)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),
hdc in next 3(3,3,3,3)(3,4,4)scs, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,2,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in each st untilBOR, 3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR).
Short row 3: hdc in next 13(13,15,15,16)(16,17,18)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst), hdc in next 3(3,3,3,3)(3,4,4)scs, sc in next 1(1,1,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,1,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to BOR,
3hdcs in BOR (mark the second of these three hdcs as a new BOR), hdc in each st until next M, 3hdc in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), in next 13(13,15,15,16)(16,17,18)sts, linked hdc (over ch-1sp and same st as slst),
hdc in next 3(3,3,3,3)(3,4,4)scs, sc in next 1(1,1,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, slst in next sc, ch1, turn, sk slst, sc in next 1(1,1,2,2)(2,2,2)scs, hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to the second st of these three hdcs), hdc in each st toBOR, 2hdcs in BOR (mark the second made hdc as a new BOR).
Don’t turn and continue.
Next round: hdc in each st to next M making linked hdc on edge of last short row, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M making linked hdc on edge of last short row, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.
After this row you should have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 38(39, 43, 44, 46)(47,50,52)sts on back and front and 21(21, 23, 24, 25)(25, 27, 28) sts on each sleeve sections.
You will now continue by working in turned rounds.
Work below Round 1 and Round 4 according to your size!
Round 1: ch2, 2hdcs in same st, reposition BOR to first made hdc, hdc in each st to M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.
Round 4: ch2, hdc in same st, reposition BOR, hdc in each st to M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdc in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, hdc in same st as BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.
Start here according to your size:
ONLY Size 1: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 2 times plus Round 1 three more times and Round 4 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 60sts on back and front and 33 sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 2: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 3 times plus Round 1 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 65sts on back and front and 35 sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 3: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 3 times plus Round 1 three more times and Round 4 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 73sts on back and front and 39sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 4: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 4 times plus Round 1 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 78sts on back and front and 42sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 5: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 4 times plus Round 1 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 80sts on back and front and 43sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 6: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 4 times plus Round 1 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 81sts on back and front and 43sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 7: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 3 times plus Round 1 three more times and Round 4 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 80sts on back and front and 43sts on each sleeve sections.
ONLY Size 8: [Round 1 three times, Round 4 three times] rep 4 times plus Round 1 two more times until you have (excludes BOR and other 3Ms) 86sts on back and front and 46sts on each sleeve sections.
Next rounds:
Work below Round 1a – 3a according to your size!
Round 1a: ch2, 2hdcs in same st, reposition BOR to first made hdc, [hdc in each st to M, 3hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc)] rep to BOR, hdc in same st as BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.
Round 2a: ch2, 2hdcs in same st, reposition BOR to first made hdc, hdc in each st to M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc) hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.
Round 3a: ch2, hdc in same st, mark as a new BOR, hdc in each st to M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc) hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to second made hdc), hdc in each st to next M, 2hdcs in M (reposition M to first made hdc), hdc in each st to BOR, hdc in same st as BOR, slst to BOR. Turn.
Start here according to your size:
ONLY Size 1: Work Round 1a twice, Round 2a once and Round 1a twice.
ONLY Size 2: Work Round 1a twice, Round 3a once and Round 1a twice.
ONLY Size 3: Work Round 1a twice, Round 2a once and Round 1a once.
ONLY Size 4: Work Round 1a twice, Round 3a once and Round 1a once.
ONLY Size 5: Work Round 1a twice, Round 3a once and Round 1a twice.
ONLY Size 6: Work Round 1a twice, Round 3a once, Round 1a twice and Round 2a once.
ONLY Size 7: Work Round 1a twice, Round 2a once, Round 1a twice, Round 3a once, Round 1a twice, Round 2a once, Round 1a twice, Round 3a once and Round 1a once.
ONLY Size 8: Work Round 1a twice, Round 3a once, Round 1a twice, Round 2a once, Round 1a twice, Round 3a once, Round 1a twice and Round 2a once.
226(240, 256, 272, 286)(292, 338, 348) total sts; at back and front 68(73, 79, 84, 88)(89, 98, 102)sts; at sleeves: 43(45, 47, 50, 53)(55, 69, 70)sts; plus 4 raglan sts.
SEPARATE BODY AND SLEEVES
After the last repeat of round 1a turn your work. Next the body and sleeves are separated.
Size 1: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.
Size 2: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch5, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5, sk all sts to next M, hdc in each st to next M, sls to BOR.
Size 3: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch5, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch5, sk all sts to next M, hdc in each st to next M, sls to BOR.
Size 4: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch4, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch4, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.
Size 5: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in each st to next M, sls to BOR.
Size 6: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch8, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch8, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.
Size 7: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to BOR, slst to BOR.
Size 8: ch2, hdc in same st (mark this st as a new BOR), hdc in each st to M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to next M, hdc in M (remove M), hdc in each st to next M, hdc in M (remove M), ch3, sk all sts to BOR, sls to BOR.
LOWER BODY
Lower body is worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs till work measures 27 (27, 29, 29, 29)(34, 34, 34)cm/ 10.5(10.5, 11.5, 11.5, 11.5)(13.5, 13.5, 13.5)” or till the desired length of the sweater from underarm.
When you come to underarm chains, work regular hdc in each chain until end of the underarm.
Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round)
After approx. 5 rounds change to yarn B.
Work last round of the sweater using yarn A. Ensure that you have finished your final round in a BOR position.
DON’T fasten and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 8 that begins the hem originates from BOR point.
HEM
The hem is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 2.5mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch8, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 3 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [7sts ]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.
SLEEVES (Both worked the same):
Sleeves are worked in one continuous spiral of hdcs.
With RS facing you, attach Yarn A with slst in a central space in the underarm to begin working around.
Round 1: ch1, sc in same ch as join, place BOR marker, hdc in each ch and st around (don’t join the round)
Continue with Round 1making one hdc2tog decrease on every 6th round 4(4, 4, 5, 5)(6, 6, 6) times. Reposition BOR as you go.
Work rounds of hdc and decrease till work measures 23(23, 25, 25, 27)(30, 30, 30)cm/ 9(9, 10, 10, 10.5)(12, 12, 12)” till the desired length of the sleeve from underarm.
After approx. 5 rounds change to yarn B.
Work last round of the sweater using yarn A. Ensure that you have finished your final round in a position that lines up with attach yarn point.
DON’T fasten and DON’T cut the yarn. The chain 8 that begins the hem originates from attached yarn point.
CUFF
The cuffs are worked in rows and attached to the sleeve as you go. Continue with 2.5mm hook.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch8, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 3 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [7sts ]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your sweter to measurements. Sew up underarm holes if necessary.
With 3,5mm hook and Yarn A, ch8.
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
You should have 7 sc stitches in each row.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.
Repeat row 2 24 times for a total of 26 rows.
Make ch2 (doesn’t count as a st) and regular hdc in each ribbing’s row across (26hdcs total). Turn.
Next row: ch2 (doesn’t count as a st), hdc in each st across. Turn. Repeat this row approx. 16 more times. After approx. 7th repeat change to yarn B.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends, block the pocket and sew it to your sweater.
If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com
Stitch count for each size
If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com
Hi, I’m a knitting person, and I never imagined that you can make such a beautiful sweater to crochet! I like it so much. I am very impressed.