The next free crochet pattern of my mosaic crochet series is here! I am delighted to show you this Mosaic Cocoon Cardigan that looks way more complicated than it is!
With this free crochet pattern you’ll learn how to turn two crochet rectangles into a shrug!
Scroll down to see the Mosaic Cocoon Cardigan free crochet pattern or you may choose to purchase the ad-free, printable PDF crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry.
The design
Mosaic Cocoon Cardigan is crochet in two pieces with minimal sewing to join both pieces together and to create armholes.
The crochet mosaic colorwork keeps the crocheting interesting and the ribbing gives the shrug a knit-look. It works up really quickly!
Worked as two flat rectangles, the unique construction of this roomy cardi makes it a quick and fun crochet garment.
First, a upper body piece is worked from side to side starting from the hem, going through mosaic colorworks and simple single crochet rows and ending up with the second hem.
Next, the lower body piece is worked bottom up featuring engaging crochet mosaic colorwork.
The rectangles are seamed at the sides and across the top of the back, leaving openings for the armholes.
Scroll down to see Progress Pictures.
Styling
The oversized shape flatters any body type. Whether paired with a tank, top or dress, Mosaic Cocoon Cardigan is effortless and stylish.
The yarn
Made with DK yarn, this cocoon cardigan works up quickly and can be made in 6 sizes. It’s worked in DROPS Puna yarn – super soft warm alpaca, perfect for fall/winter and cooler days.
The result is comfortable, light and wonderful to both see and touch!
Mosaic crochet
Mosaic crochet is perfect for beginners who are attempting crochet colorwork for the first time.
This wonderful method of colorwork involves only basic stitches and changing colors between rows.
Mosaic crochet works well either flat or in the round which gives it more flexibility than other colorwork techniques.
Scroll down to learn with my heavy step-by-step picture tutorial how to work mosaic crochet.
If you liked my Mosaic Cocoon Cardigan you might also like my other free patterns using the mosaic crochet.
I had a lot of fun creating this pattern, and I hope you do too!
If you want to share your wips and finished cardigan on social media, please, use hashtag #mycrochetory. I love to see your finished project!
MOSAIC COCOON CARDIGAN FREE PATTERN
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2020 – 2024 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The cardigan you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.
Materials & Tools:
- Yarn Drops Puna 50g = 110m (120,3 yds), 100% Alpaca.
Yarn A:
797(880, 981, 1090)(1228, 1330)m/ 871(962, 1073, 1192)(1344, 1455) yds
Yarn B:
183(198, 210, 225)(240, 254) m / 201(217, 230, 246)(262, 278) yds
Note that yardage may vary depending on yarn used, gauge variations or modifications.
- Hook size 5mm. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
- Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends),
- Scissors,
Level:
Intermediate.
Gauge after blocking:
15 sts and 16 rows to 10 x 10cm (4 x 4”) using 5mm hook with single crochet stitches. If necessary, adjust hook size to obtain the correct gauge.
Before you measure, please take the time to wash and block your swatch in the same manner that you will wash and block your cardigan.
Sizes:
1 (2, 3, 4)(5, 6)
This cardigan is designed to fit a person with a center back neck to wrist length of approximately
65.5(68, 72.5, 75.25)(79.75, 82.75)cm
25.75(26.75, 28.5, 29.5)(31.5, 32.5)
Click here to learn how to measure your center back neck to wrist length.
Finished measurements:
Measurements given are for the finished garment.
Length at center back (from nape to hem):
65.5(68, 71.5, 75.25)(78.75, 81.25)cm
26(27, 28, 29.5)(31, 32)”
From armhole-to-armhole:
131(136, 143, 150.5)(157.5, 162.5)cm
51.5(53.5, 56.5, 59.5)(61, 64)”
Circumference after assembly:
144(154, 164, 174)(184, 194)cm
56.75(60.5, 64.5, 68.5)(72.5, 76.5)”
Sample pictured is a size 2 with a center back to wrist length of 68cm/26.75”.
General Notes:
- The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- When only one number is given, it applies to all sizes.
- STITCHES: When in the instructions you have a stitch followed by a number, eg sc14, this means you have to work 1sc stitch into each of the next 14 sts. When in the instructions you have a number followed by a stitch, eg 2sc, this this means you have to work 2 sc stitches into the next (same) stitch.
- Pieces A and B are assembled with 3 seams – as shown in schematic – leaving space for the armholes.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
Mosaic Pattern Notes:
- You can either follow the chart or written instructions.
- Color is changed after every 2 rows. Change yarn in last stitch of row.
- You can avoid weaving in all those ends by not cutting the yarn when you finish a row. Simply carry the other color along the inside and pick it back up with your hook when you need to use it again.
- You are only working with one strand of yarn at a time – no carrying yarn across the rows.
How to read the Mosaic Chart:
- Chart is read from bottom to top and each row of squares represents 2 rows worked in same color.
- All odd rows on RS (1, 3, 5, etc.) are read from right to left.
- All even rows on WS (2, 4, 6, etc.) are read from left to right.
- Each square of the chart represents 1stitch or 1 skipped stitch.
- Whenever you see a square of color dedicated to that row, work single crochet.
- Whenever you see a square of different color in that row, skip that stitch (make chain). To prevent puckering, make the same number of chain as the number of skipped sts plus ch1. For example, for 1 skipped st – make ch2, for 2 skipped sts – make ch3, for 3 skipped sts – make ch4, etc.
- Pay special attention to number of skipped stitches when working on RS.
- When working on WS make sure you work sc in every st without missing any.
- On next odd row on RS (after color change), mosaicdc will be worked in these skipped sts from two rows below. Remember, mosaicdc are always worked in front of chains of previous rows.
- IMPORTANT! Mosaicdc are always worked on RS. On WS just single crochet and chain stitches are used.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):
st(s) – stitch(es)
BOR – beginning of the row/round
BLsc – back loop only single crochet
yo – yarn over
mosaicdc (mosaic double crochet) – work regular dc in unworked/skipped st of the same color two rows below in front of chain space (in front of work). These chains will stay behind mosaicdc and will stay unworked.
sp – space
sk – skip
beg – beginning
prev – previous
RS – right ride
WS – wrong side
PATTERN
PIECE A
HEM 1
HOW TO START YOUR CROCHET PROJECT WITH A CROCHET RIBBING
With 5mm hook and Yarn A, ch11(ch11, ch12, ch12)(ch13, ch13).
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.
You should have 10(10, 11, 11)(12, 12) sc stitches in each row.
Repeat Row 2 41(45, 47, 51)(55, 59) times for a total of 43(47, 49, 53)(57, 61) rows.
Don’t break the yarn.
Next row 1 (RS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout) sc in each hem’s rows. Turn.
Next row 2 (WS): ch1, sc in each st to end. Turn. Change to Yarn B in final st.
You should have 43(47, 49, 53)(57, 61) sc sts in each row.
COLORWORK 1
With RS facing you.
Size 1: instructions HERE
Size 2: instructions HERE
Size 3: instructions HERE
Size 4: instructions HERE
Size 5: instructions HERE
Size 6: instructions HERE
Next rows for all sizes:
Row 1 (RS): With Yarn A. ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in each st to end. Turn.
You should have 43(47, 49, 53)(57, 61) sc sts in each row.
Repeat row 1 121(129, 141, 149)(161, 169) more times working your last row on WS.
COLORWORK 1
With RS facing you.
Repeat instructions for Colorwork 1 according to your size.
Next rows for all sizes:
Work two rows of sc using Yarn A.
HEM 2
HOW TO ADD A CROCHET RIBBING AT THE END
This hem is worked in rows and attached to the body as you go. Continue with 5mm hook and Yarn A.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch11(ch11, ch12, ch12)(ch13, ch13), starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [10(10, 11, 11)(12, 12)sts ]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge.
Don’t break the yarn.
Make one row of single crochet across the longer edge working one single crochet in each hem’s stitch and one single crochet in each main body’s row.
FRONT BAND
This front band is worked in rows and attached to the longer side of the body as you go.
HOW TO ADD A CROCHET RIBBING AT THE END
Continue with 5mm hook and Yarn A.
With RS facing you.
Row 1: ch11(ch11, ch12, ch12)(ch13, ch13), starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across [10(10, 11, 11)(12, 12)sts ]. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using slst and work one more slst in the next st of main body (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your hem is joined to the entire lower edge.
Don’t break the yarn.
Make one round of single crochet around entire Piece A working one single crochet in each stitch, in each hem’s stitch and in each body’s row. Place 3 single crochet stitches in each corner.
PIECE B
HEM
HOW TO START YOUR CROCHET PROJECT WITH A CROCHET RIBBING
With 5mm hook and Yarn A, ch11(ch11, ch12, ch12)(ch13, ch13).
Row 1: sc in second ch from hook, sc in each ch to end. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc), sc in first st, BLsc across until last st remain, sc in last st. Turn.
You should have 10(10, 11, 11)(12, 12) sc stitches in each row.
Repeat row 2 105(113, 121, 129)(137, 145) times for a total of 107(115, 123, 131)(139, 147) rows.
Don’t break the yarn.
Next row 1 (RS): ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout) sc in each hem’s rows. Turn.
Next row 2 (WS): ch1, sc in each st to end. Turn. Change to Yarn B in final st.
You should have 107(115, 123, 131)(139, 147)sc sts in each row.
COLORWORK 2
With RS facing you.
Size 1: instructions HERE
Size 2: instructions HERE
Size 3: instructions HERE
Size 4: instructions HERE
Size 5: instructions HERE
Size 6: instructions HERE
Next rows for all sizes:
Work 2(2, 2, 4)(4, 4) rows of sc using Yarn A.
Don’t break the yarn.
Make one round of single crochet around entire Piece B working one single crochet in each stitch, in each hem’s stitch and in each body’s row. Place 3 single crochet stitches in each corner.
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your Piece A and Piece B to measurements.
ASSEMBLY
Once dry, place both Piece A and Piece B with RS facing you. Seam pieces together using Mattress Stitch – refer to schematic.
Now, seam along ribbed hem of each piece leaving 22.5(22.5, 22.5, 23.75)( 23.75, 23.75)cm/9(9, 9, 9.5)(9.5, 9.5)” of these sides unseamed for armhole opening – refer to schematic.
ARMHOLE RIBBING (both worked the same)
The armhole ribbings are worked in rows and attached to the armhole opening as you go. Continue with 5mm hook.
HOW TO ADD A CROCHET RIBBING AT THE END
With RS facing you.
Attach yarn in any place and make ch6 (ch6, ch7, ch7)(ch8, ch8)
Row 1: starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the armhole opening using slst and work one more slst in the next st of armhole opening (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Row 2: Starting from 4 st from hook, work BLsc in each st across. Turn.
Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each st across. Join to the next st of the edge of armhole opening using slst and work one more slst in the next st of armhole opening (2 slst(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.
Repeat Rows 2-3 until your armhole ribbing is joined to the entire armhole opening. Then join your last row with the first row using the slip stitches.
Fasten off the yarn.
If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com
CROCHET MOSAIC TUTORIAL
Row 1:
Row 2:
Row 3:
Row 4:
Row 5:
Row 6:
Row 7:
Row 8:
Row 9:
Row 11:
Row 13:
Row 15:
Row 17:
Row 19:
Row 21:
Row 23:
Row 25:
Row 27:
Row 29:
PROGRESS PICTURES
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Wow, what completely great pictures of the progress! I am looking forward to trying this pattern! It is beautiful in blue and white – truly gorgeous work. Thank you for sharing!