Your First Crochet Cable Cowl: The Free October Cowl Pattern

Updated: 6 November 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)

This crochet cable cowl started with a little crush. I’ve always admired knitted cables on sweaters, and I wanted that look in crochet too.

The October Cowl is a snug collar cowl with cables all the way around and ribbed cuffs at both ends. It’s about 11 inches wide laid flat and 9.5 inches tall, so no wind gets in. And it’s the perfect first cable project, I promise.

Scroll down to the free October Cowl pattern, or get the ad-free, printable PDF with the stitch chart HERE on Etsy or HERE on Ravelry.

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Why a Crochet Cable Cowl Is the Best First Cable Project

Here’s a secret nobody tells you about crochet cables. They only use two stitches, front post double crochet and front post treble crochet, worked around stitches two rounds below. That’s the whole magic trick.

You see a mistake right away, and ripping back one round isn’t the end of the world. Try that with a cabled sweater!

I designed the October Cowl in 2018, about two years after I taught myself to crochet, as the first design in my crochet cable series. And honestly, I can’t think of a better first try at crochet cables than a cowl.

A Hand-Dyed Yarn I Found at Drutozlot

Some yarns you buy with a plan, and some you simply can’t leave behind. I found Meme Yarns Goatee at Drutozlot, a Polish yarn festival, and it caught my eye right away.

It’s a hand-dyed blend of merino, silk and cashmere, and it feels just as soft as that sounds. I first meant it for a completely different design, but it turned out to be the perfect match for the October Cowl.

One skein of the Mustard colorway, about 437 yards (400 m), is enough for the whole cowl.

Choosing Yarn for Your Crochet Cable Cowl

Let’s be honest, nobody wants an itchy neck all winter. A crochet cable cowl sits right against your skin, so I always pick yarn that doesn’t itch.

I still recommend Goatee, but I’m not sure you can still buy it. If you can’t find it, any soft yarn of a similar weight will do the job, like merino, alpaca or a soft wool blend.

Yarn substitutes

If Goatee is nowhere to be found, try Malabrigo Sock from LoveCrafts. It’s a soft superwash merino with 440 yards per skein, so one skein still makes the whole cowl, and Ochre is a warm mustard shade to look at.

Make a small swatch before you start. A different yarn can change the size quite a bit, and with cables you want to know that early.

How the Cables Are Built

Cables look complicated, but the cowl underneath them is pretty simple. This crochet cable cowl is worked in one piece in the round, on a multiple of 16 stitches. Every odd round is plain half double crochet, and every even round is single crochet with the cables.

The post stitches sit on top of the fabric, so the cables really stand out. On the cable rounds they cross over each other, once behind and once in front.

Not sure about the crossings? The cable stitch tutorial at the end of the pattern lets you practice on a small flat swatch first.

Make the Crochet Cable Cowl Taller or Shorter

Like a cowl you can pull up to your nose on windy days? Make yours taller. You can stop your crochet cable cowl on any pattern round, as long as your last round is a half double crochet round.

Want deeper cuffs? Just add more chains at the start of the ribbing. For a looser or tighter cowl, chain any multiple of 16 instead of 112, and keep in mind that more stitches mean more yarn.

Is This Crochet Cable Cowl Right for You?

Never tried post stitches before? Don’t panic. It’s an intermediate pattern, but the post stitches are explained step by step, and the rest is half double crochet, single crochet and working in the round.

The ribbing is added at the end and joined to the cowl as you go, so there’s nothing to sew. My crochet ribbing tutorial shows how it works with photos.

Not starting today? Save the crochet cable cowl on Pinterest for the first cold morning.

October Crochet Cable Cowl Free Pattern

• Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch chart here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
• Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
• Pin it for later.

Copyright 2018 – 2026 MyCrochetory. All rights reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The cowl you make following this pattern is yours, and you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as the original designer. For more information, please read the Terms Page.

As a bonus, the ad-free, printable PDF includes a stitch chart. If you want to support my work, you can buy it HERE on Etsy or HERE on Ravelry.

Materials & Tools:

1. Yarn Meme Yarns Goatee 100 g = 400 m (437 yd), 70% merino wool, 20% silk, 10% cashmere, 1 skein. For the cowl sample I used Mustard colorway. Substitute: Malabrigo Sock 100 g = 402 m (440 yd), 100% superwash merino, 1 skein.
2. Hook size 3.5 mm for the main body, 3 mm for ribbing. Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
3. Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends).
4. Scissors.

Level:

Intermediate – post stitches, working in the round, crochet ribbing.

Size:

One size (adjustable). Approx. 28 cm / 11” wide across the middle (not across the ribbing) and approx. 24 cm / 9.5” high.

Gauge:

21 sts x 24 rows = 10 x 10 cm (4 x 4”) in the pattern of one round of hdc and one round of sc.

Gauge is not important for this project. However, changes might result in different yardage requirements and a different finished size.

Notes:

• The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
• This cowl is crocheted in one piece in the round. Ribbing cuffs are added at both ends of the cowl.
• All odd rounds are half double crochet rounds, with 1 hdc in each st of the previous round.
• All FPdc(s) and FPtr(s) are worked around indicated stitches 2 rounds below.
• The number of post stitches is always the same as the number of skipped st(s) so the stitch count stays the same (112) in every round.
• The body stitch pattern is a multiple of 16.
• The cable stitch tutorial with detailed pictures is at the end of the pattern.

Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):

ch(s) – chain(s) stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

sl st – slip stitch

sc – single crochet

hdc – half double crochet

BLsc – back loop only single crochet

yo – yarn over

FPdc – front post double crochet – Yo, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch; yo and draw up loop; [ yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] twice. Skip stitch behind FPdc.

FPtr – front post treble crochet – Yo twice, insert hook from front to back to front around post of indicated stitch; yo and draw up loop; [ yo and draw through 2 loops on hook] 3 times. Skip stitch behind FPtr.

beg – beginning

sk – skip

Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.

Pattern

With 3.5 mm hook ch 112 (or a multiple of 16) and sl st in the first st to close the round.

Be careful and join your starting chain without twisting.

Round 1 and all odd rounds: ch2 (doesn’t count as a hdc here and throughout), hdc in each st around, sl st to first hdc to join. (112 hdc)

Round 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a sc here and throughout), sc in each st around, sl st to first sc to join. (112 sc)

Round 3: work as Round 1. (112 hdc)

Round 4: ch1, [sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 2sc two rounds below, sk 2 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in next 3 hdc, FPdc around next 8sc two rounds below, sk 8 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made] rep in every st around, sl st to first sc of this round to join. (42sc, 70FPdc)

Round 5: work as Round 1. (112 hdc)

Round 6: ch1, [sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc, sk 2 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in next 3 hdc, sk 2 FPdc and FPtr around next 2 FPdc, working BEHIND FPtr just made FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc, sk 4st(s) behind FPtr(s) just made, sk next 2 FPdc and FPtr around next 2 FPdc, working IN FRONT OF FPtr just made FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc, sk 4st(s) behind FPtr(s) just made] rep in every st around, sl st to first sc of this round to join. (42sc, 14FPdc, 56FPtr)

Round 7: work as Round 1. (112 hdc)

Round 8: ch1, [sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 2 FPdc, sk 2 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in next 3 hdc, FPdc around next 8 FPtr, sk 8 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made] rep in every st around, sl st to first sc of this round to join. (42sc, 70FPdc)

Rounds 9 – 44: repeat Rounds 5 – 8.

Round 45: work as Round 1. (112 hdc)

You can end on any of the pattern rounds, but make sure your last round is a hdc round.

Ribbing

Don’t break the yarn and with 3 mm hook start making the first trim.

Row 1: ch7, starting with 2nd ch from hook, work 1 sc in each ch back to edge of main body. Join to the next st of the edge of main body using sl st and work one more sl st in the next st of main body (2 sl st(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Row 2: starting from the 3rd st from hook (skip the 2 sl sts), work BLsc in each st across (6 BLsc). Turn.

Row 3: ch1 (does not count as a st), BLsc in each stitch across (6 st(s)). Join to the next st of the edge of main body using sl st and work one more sl st in the next st of main body (2 sl st(s) in total for joining) plus make ch1. Turn.

Repeat Rows 2 – 3 until you reach the beginning of Row 1. Then join your last row to the first row using slip stitches.

For the second cuff, attach your yarn with a sl st anywhere on the other edge of the cowl body and repeat Rows 1 – 3 of the ribbing.

You can also make wider ribbing cuffs by adding extra chains.

Fasten off yarn and weave in all ends.

Cable Stitch Tutorial

Make ch19

Row 1: hdc in 3rd ch from hook, hdc in each st across. Turn. (17hdc)

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as sc here and throughout), sc in each st across. Turn. (17sc)

Row 3: ch2 (doesn’t count as hdc here and throughout), hdc in each st across. Turn. (17hdc)

Row 4: ch1, sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 8sc two rows below, sk 8 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 2sc two rows below, sk 2 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in last hdc. Turn. (7sc, 10FPdc)

Row 5: ch2, hdc in each st across. Turn. (17hdc)

Row 6: ch1, sc in next 3 hdc, sk next 2 FPdc and FPtr around next 2 FPdc, working BEHIND FPtr just made FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc, sk 4st(s) behind FPtr(s) just made, sk next 2 FPdc and FPtr around next 2 FPdc, working IN FRONT OF FPtr just made FPtr around 2 skipped FPdc, sk 4st(s) behind FPtr(s) just made, sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 2FPdcs, sk 2 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in last hdc. Turn. (7sc, 8FPtr, 2FPdc)

Row 7: ch2, hdc in each st across. Turn. (17hdc)

Row 8: ch1, sc in next 3 hdc, FPdc around next 8 FPtr, sk 8 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in next 3hdc, FPdc around next 2FPdc, sk 2 st(s) behind FPdc(s) just made, sc in last hdc. Turn. (7sc, 10FPdc)

Row 9: rep Row 7

Row 10: rep Row 6

Stuck on a round? Ask in my Facebook Group or Ravelry Group, or email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.

Finished your October Cowl? Share it on Instagram with #mycrochetory or #octobercowl and tag @mycrochetory so I can see it.

More Crochet Cable Patterns

Caught the cable bug? These two designs of mine use crochet cables too.

• Cable Diamond Blanket, a baby blanket covered in cable diamonds.
• Cable Diamond Pillow, a pillow cover with cable diamonds and one of my early designs.

More Free Crochet Cowl Patterns

Need another cowl for the cold months? Here are a few more of mine, each with a different texture.

• Herringbone Cowl, a thick and cozy alpaca neck warmer in herringbone stitch.
• Duende Cowl, a two-color mosaic cowl with a bold zigzag, worked in a spiral.
• Namari Mosaic Cowl, a two-color mosaic cowl with ribbed edges.
• Ombre Moss Stitch Cowl, a three-color ombre cowl in moss stitch, worked in the round.

Crochet Cable Cowl FAQ

Where are Rounds 3, 5 and 7?

They’re all plain hdc rounds, worked just like Round 1. Now they’re written out in the pattern, so you won’t lose your place.

Why do I have more or fewer than 112 stitches?

Check that you skip one stitch behind every post stitch. Each FPdc and FPtr takes the place of the stitch behind it, so the count should never change.

How do I block the crochet cable cowl?

Goatee is merino, silk and cashmere, so wet blocking works well. Soak the cowl, gently press out the water, then shape it and let it dry flat.