Arrow Crochet Wrap

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You have probably noticed already that I am totally addicted to making crochet shawls. My sketchbook includes plenty of new ideas to make in the future. There are drawings of shawls with different colors ideas and using different stitch patterns and, to be honest, the most common shape is a triangle. But not today! Today I am so excited to be able to finally share a project with you that I’ve spent the last several weeks working on – the Arrow Crochet Wrap

Scroll down to get the full free pattern below or purchase the ad-free, printable PDF crochet pattern with stitch chart HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry.

As you’ll see in the photos, this is a long, slim, arrow-shaped shawl that can be worn a variety of ways and is the perfect piece for your wardrobe. Arrow Crochet Wrap is worked from end to end, pointy at one end and V-shaped at the other end. Alternation of stripes and two different lace patterns creates nice texture and eye-catching lace designs. The whole wrap is perfectly reversible.

Arrow Crochet Wrap is a great project for those of you looking to expand your crochet skills. Not quite mindless project, but simple enough that it becomes rhythmic. Make it as big/small or wide/narrow as you wish. The number of section repeats can be adjusted, depending on the desired size of the finished shawl.

Arrow Crochet Wrap is the perfect chance to try your hand at combining colours. Since I wanted the lace patterns to shine, I knew I wanted this wrap to be crocheted in one neutral and two contrasting colours. The result is an incredibly stunning arrow-shaped wrap and it’s easier than it looks. Keep your colours muted or try mixing a dark, light and bright to create this delightful arrow-shaped shawl.

I highly recommend using yarn that blocks and drapes really well. To be fully satisfied with the final result you have to block properly your shawl.

For this project I decided to use (AGAIN!) Alpaca yarn from DROPS Garnstudio. If you follow my work you may have noticed that I used it before designing Spring Solstice Wrap and ZygZak Shawl. This yarn is an incredibly soft, sport weight yarn that is 100% Camelid – Alpaca.

Because this yarn is so soft and the pattern works up so easily, I am really pleased with how this crochet arrow-shaped shawl came out.

I would like to send many thanks to my amazing and talented testers who helped me to bring this crochet design to life. Their meticulosity and all advices they gave me during the test helped me to improve this crochet pattern and make it perfect for you. You can check out my testers’ projects HERE and see how beautiful their shawls turned out.

I hope you have been inspired to create your own luxurious arrow-shaped wrap!

OTHER FREE CROCHET SHAWL PATTERNS YOU MIGHT LOVE

  1. Despina Shawl/2. Flores Shawl /3. Leto Shawl /4. Spring Solstice Wrap

ARROW CROCHET WRAP FREE PATTERN

Copyright 2018-2019 MyCrochetory. All right reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.

The shawl you make following this pattern is yours you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as original designer. For more information, please, read Terms Page.

As a bonus in the ad-free, printable PDF, I’ve provided stitch chart. If you’re a visual learner or if you just want to support my work you can purchase this crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry. Thank you and I hope you find it useful!

Materials & Tools:
  1. Yarn Drops Alpaca (100% alpaca – 50g/167m) in 3 different colors:
    • 3 skeins of Yarn white (101),
    • 2 skeins of Yarn B medium grey (517),
    • 2 skeins of Yarn C tomato (3900).
  2. Hook  size 3.5mm. Adjust  hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge,
  3. Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends),
  4. Scissors.
Level:

Intermediate.

Size after blocking:

One size: approx. 213cm (85.86’’) long and 40.5cm (15.94’’) wide.

Gauge after blocking:

After row 20: 22.5cm/8.86” long and 40.5cm/15.94” wide.

Gauge is not crucial for this project. However, changes might result in different yardage requirements and finished size.

Notes:
  • The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
  • Shawl is worked in rows back and forth.
    Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
  • Pattern is a multiple of 48 plus 12 stitches. If you want a narrower wrap start with 48+12 chains. If you want wider wrap start with 144+12 chains but please be aware that repeats for those sizes was given only just for reference.
  • You can make this wrap as long as you like by adding or substracting rows.
  • You can also use yarn in different weights, but just know that the width will be different depending on your gauge.
  • Ch3 and ch1 in the beginning of the row doesn’t count as a stitch.
  • sk next (…) means skip all stitches included in (…) at once.
  • The stitch chart is included in the ad-free printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
Stitches & Abbreviations (US terms):

ch(s) – chain(s) stitch

st(s) – stitch(es)

sc – single crochet

BLsc – back loop only single crochet

dc – double crochet

yo – yarn over

dc2tog (double crochet 2 together) – [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

dc3tog (double crochet 3 together) – [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] three times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.

dc2*tog – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, skip one st and insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

PATTERN

PATTERN

Medium (narrower, wider)

With yarn  B

Ch108 (ch60, ch156)

Row 1: dc3tog in 4th, 5th and 6th ch from hook, dc in next 49 (25, 73)sts, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) in next st, dc in next 49 (25, 73)sts, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.

Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in first st, BLsc until ch-3 sp, 4scs over ch-3 sp, BLsc until one st remain, sc in last st. Turn.

With yarn A

Row 3: ch3 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), dc3tog in first 3sts, dc in next 51 (27, 75)sts, ch3, dc in next 51 (27, 75)sts, dc3tog in last 3 sts. Turn.

Repeat row 2

With yarn B

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Row 7: ch1, sc in every st across. Turn.

If you tend to make your chains tight, work ch3 instead of ch2 and ch2 instead of ch1 in the following rows 8-11.

Row 8: ch3, dc3tog in first 3sts, ch1, [dc2*tog in next 3sts, ch2] rep 16 (8, 24) times in total, sk next st, dc in next 2sts, ch3, dc in next 2sts, sk next st, [ch2, dc2*tog in next 3sts] rep until 3sts remain, ch1, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.

In this row you should have 32 (16, 48) dc2*tog stitches in total.

Row 9: ch3, dc3tog in first 3sts, [ch2, dc2*tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep to last ch-2 sp before 2dcs, ch2, dc2*tog – first leg over ch-2 sp, sk next dc and second leg in next dc, ch1, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) over ch-3 sp, ch1, dc2*tog – first leg in first dc, sk next dc and second leg over ch-2 sp, [ch2, dc2*tog – first leg in the same ch-2 sp, sk next st, and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until last ch-2 sp, ch2, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.

In this row you should have 32 (16, 48) dc2*tog stitches in total.

Row 10: ch3, dc2tog – first leg in first st and second leg over ch-2 sp, dc in next st (in dc2*tog), [ch2, dc2*tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until ch-1 sp (the second leg of the last dc2*tog over ch-1 sp), ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, sk next dc, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) over ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, dc2*tog – first leg over ch-1 sp, sk next st and second leg in next ch-2 sp, [ch2, dc2*tog­ – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until second to last ch-2 sp, ch2, dc in next st (in last dc2*tog), dc2tog in next 2sts – first leg over ch-2 sp and second in last st. Turn.

In this row you should have 30 (14, 46) dc2*tog stitches in total.

Row 11: ch3, dc3tog (third leg over ch-2 sp), ch1, [dc2*tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp, ch2] rep until last ch-2 sp before ch-3 sp, dc2*tog – first leg in the same ch-2 sp, sk next st and second leg in next ch-1 sp, ch2, dc2*tog – first leg in next dc, sk ch-1 sp and second leg in next dc, ch2, sk next dc, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) over ch-3 sp, ch2, sk next dc, dc2*tog first leg in next dc, sk ch-1 sp and second leg in next dc, ch2, dc2*tog – first leg over ch-1 sp, sk next st and second leg in next ch-2 sp, [ch2, dc2*tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until last ch-2 sp, ch1, dc3tog – first leg over ch-2 sp, second and third leg in next 2sts. Turn.

In this row you should have 32 (16, 48) dc2*tog stitches in total.

Rows 12 – 17: Repeat rows 9 – 11

Rows 18 – 19: Repeat rows 910

Row 20: ch1, sc in first st and every st across: 1sc over ch-1 sp, 2sc over ch-2 sp and 4 sc over ch-3 sp. Turn.

With yarn C

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn C

Repeat row 7

Repeat rows 8 – 20 one time

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2 five times.

With yarn B

Repeat row 7

Row 50: ch3, dc3tog in first 3sts, ch1, sk next st, [dc in next 3sts, ch1, sk next 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in next st, ch1, sk next 2sts] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, dc in next 2sts, ch3, dc in next 2sts, [ch1, sk next 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in next st, ch1, sk next 2sts, dc in next 3sts] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, ch1, sk next st, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.

Row 51: ch3, dc3tog in next 3sts, dc in next dc, [ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp and dc), 7dcs over ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp, dc), dc in next dc] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, [ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp and dc), 7dcs over ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next (dc, ch1, dc), dc in next dc] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.

Row 52: ch3, dc3tog in next 3sts, ch1, sk next 2dcs, dc in next 3dcs, ch1, sk next (2dcs and ch-1 sp), (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc, [ch1, sk next (ch-1 sp and 2dcs), dc in next 3dcs, ch1, sk next (2dcs and ch-1 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc] rep 5 (2, 8) times in total, ch1, sk next 2dcs, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next 2 dcs, (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc, ch1, sk next (ch-1 sp and 2dcs), dc in next 3dcs, [ch1, sk next (2dcs and ch-1 sp, (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc, ch1, sk next (ch-1 sp and 2dcs), dc in next 3dcs] rep 5 (2, 8) times in total, ch1, sk next 2dcs, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.

Repeat rows 51 – 52 eight more times

Repeat row 51

Row 70: ch1, sc in first st, [sc in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, sc in next 5dcs, sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, sc in next 3dcs, 4scs in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 3dcs, [sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, sc in next 5dcs, sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, sc in last st. Turn.

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn B

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn B

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Repeat rows 7 –  8

Repeat rows 9 – 11 two times

Repeat row 9

Repeat row 20

With yarn C

Repeat rows 3 – 2 six times

With yarn A

Repeat row 7

Repeat row 50

Repeat rows 51 – 52 five times

Repeat row 51

Repeat row 70

With yarn B

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn B

Repeat rows 7 – 8

Repeat rows 9 – 11 three times

Repeat rows 9 – 10

Repeat row 20

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn C

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn C

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn A

Repeat rows 3 – 2

With yarn C

Repeat rows 3 – 2

Repeat row 7

Repeat row 50

Repeat rows 51 – 52 three times

Repeat row 51

Repeat row 70

Repeat rows 3 -2 one time

Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your wrap.

If you have any suggestions or have detected any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com

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