Updated: 9 October 2026 by Sylwia (MyCrochetory)
Meet my arrow crochet wrap! One end comes to a sharp point like an arrowhead, and the other end is cut into a V, just like the back of an arrow. In between, V-shaped stripes of white, gray and red all point the same way.
The idea came from knitting patterns, again! I love how knitters play with shapes and mix different stitches and colors, so I wanted to try the same thing in crochet.
That’s why this crochet wrap pattern has two lace stitches, lots of stripes and a really unusual shape. And the best part? It looks just as good on both sides, because it’s fully reversible!
Scroll down for the free arrow crochet wrap pattern.
Want a printable version with a stitch chart? Get the ad-free PDF on Etsy or Ravelry.
How I designed this arrow crochet wrap
I designed this arrow crochet wrap step by step, and it all started with the shape. My sketchbook is full of shawl drawings, and most of them are triangles, so this time I wanted something long and slim. Knitting patterns gave me the idea to play with that shape and give it a pointy end and a V end, just like an arrow.
Next, I had to figure out how to crochet it. The wrap is worked in rows from one end to the other, and in the middle of every row you make a little point with (2dc, ch3, 2dc). At the same time, you work dc3tog at both edges, so every row bends into a V.
Once the shape worked, I filled it with stitches and colors. Then my testers crocheted it row by row to make sure every step worked.
What makes this crochet wrap pattern special
What makes this crochet wrap pattern special is the mix of two lace stitches in one wrap. The first one is an open mesh with lots of small holes, and you’ll see it in white, gray and red. The second one, near the pointy end, has bigger holes and little fans, so it really stands out.
Between the lace sections, thin stripes of single crochet and double crochet keep the arrow lines sharp. So you switch between lace and stripes all the time, and you never do the same thing for too long.
And since the wrap is reversible, both sides look neat. That matters a lot with a long wrap, because when you drape it over your shoulders, both sides show.
4 ways to wear your arrow crochet wrap
You can wear your arrow crochet wrap in at least four ways, and my photos show every one of them. It’s about 84 inches long, so there’s plenty of wrap to play with.
Draped loose. Put it over both shoulders and let the ends hang down to your knees. This way, you can see the whole arrow, from the pointy end all the way to the V.
Wrapped once around your neck. Loop it around your neck one time and let both ends fall in front. You get a big scarf look, and it’s great on windy days.
Like a classic shawl. Pull it over your shoulders and hold the ends together in front. Your arms stay warm on cool evenings, and the lace still shows on your back.
Spread wide in both arms. Hold it open, and the whole arrow shows at once. Sure, it’s not really a way to wear it, but it’s the best way to show off your finished wrap!
Is this crochet wrap right for you?
This crochet wrap is right for you if you know the basic stitches and want a project that keeps you interested. It’s an intermediate pattern, and the trickiest part is the lace. It uses clusters like dc3tog and a special dc2*tog, where you skip one stitch between the two legs.
The good news is that most rows come back again and again. Once you’ve worked Rows 9 to 11 one time, the next repeats feel much easier. And if you like to see stitches drawn out, the stitch chart in the printable PDF shows every row.
You’ll also change colors a lot, because the wrap has three colors and lots of stripes. So it’s worth learning how to join yarn ends neatly. Standing stitches also give you a clean start for every new stripe.
The best yarn for this arrow crochet wrap
The best yarn for this arrow crochet wrap is one that drapes and blocks well, so I picked DROPS Alpaca. It’s thin, super soft and 100% alpaca, and it lets the lace open up nicely after blocking. That drape matters a lot on a wrap this long, because it should fall softly over your shoulders.
You’ll need 7 skeins in total, so about 1,280 yards. That’s 3 skeins of white (Yarn A), 2 of medium gray (Yarn B) and 2 of tomato red (Yarn C).
Want your own color combo? Pick one light, one medium and one bold color, so the arrow stripes stay easy to see. And choose Yarn A carefully, because you’ll use it the most!
How to change the size of your crochet wrap
You can make this crochet wrap narrower or wider just by changing your starting chain. The pattern is a multiple of 48 plus 12 stitches, so you can start with 60 chains for a narrow wrap, 108 for the medium one in my photos, or 156 for a wide one. You’ll find the numbers for all three sizes in the pattern, but keep in mind that the narrow and wide ones are just for reference.
Want it longer or shorter? Simply add or skip rows, since every 20 rows give you about 9 inches of length. Just remember that a longer wrap also needs more yarn.
You can even use a different yarn weight, but then the width will change too. So work the first 20 rows and measure them, because in my wrap they’re about 9 inches long and 16 inches wide.
Arrow crochet wrap FAQ
How do I block my arrow crochet wrap?
I wet block it, because DROPS Alpaca is an animal fiber. Soak the wrap in water, stretch it gently and pin it to a mat, with extra pins at the pointy end and in the V. Then let it dry completely, and the lace and stripes will lie nice and flat.
Do the ch3 and ch1 at the start of a row count as stitches?
No, they don’t. So the first dc3tog or sc of every row goes into the very first stitch, right next to your turning chain.
What does “sk next (…)” mean in the pattern?
It means you skip everything in the brackets at once. For example, “sk next (dc, ch-1 sp, dc)” means you skip that dc, the ch-1 space and the next dc, and then work into the stitch after them.
Can I make this crochet wrap pattern with only two colors?
Yes, you can! Just use one of your two colors wherever the pattern says Yarn C. The arrow lines will look softer, but the lace and the shape stay the same.
A big thank you to my testers for all their help with this pattern! You can see their finished wraps here.
Ready to crochet your own arrow? Then pin this arrow crochet wrap first, so the pattern is always just one click away.
And when your wrap is done, I’d love to see it! Share it on Instagram with #mycrochetory and #arrowcrochetwrap, so I can find it and cheer you on.
Arrow crochet wrap free pattern
- Purchase the ad-free, printable PDF with stitch chart here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
- Add this pattern to your Ravelry Queue HERE.
- Grab the MyCrochetory Shawl Pattern BUNDLE that includes 14 patterns for one low price HERE.
- Pin it for later.
Copyright 2019–2026 MyCrochetory. All rights reserved. This pattern is property of Sylwia Kawczyńska @MyCrochetory. Please DO NOT sell the pattern and claim this pattern as your own. The pattern is for personal use only and may not be translated or reproduced in another language. Please respect my rights, DO NOT share or publish this pattern anywhere without my permission.
The crochet arrow wrap you make following this pattern is yours, and you are free to sell it, as long as you credit MyCrochetory as the original designer. For more information, please read the Terms Page.
As a bonus in the ad-free, printable PDF, I’ve provided a stitch chart. If you’re a visual learner or if you just want to support my work, you can purchase this crochet pattern HERE on ETSY or HERE on Ravelry. Thank you and I hope you find it useful!
Materials & tools
- Yarn: Drops Alpaca (100% alpaca, 50g/167m) in 3 different colors:
- 3 skeins of Yarn A white (101),
- 2 skeins of Yarn B medium grey (517),
- 2 skeins of Yarn C tomato (3900).
- Hook size 3.5mm (US E/4). Adjust hook size if necessary to obtain correct gauge.
- Tapestry needle (to weave and hide yarn ends).
- Scissors.
Level
Intermediate.
Size after blocking
One size (adjustable): approx. 213cm (83.86”) long and 40.5cm (15.94”) wide.
Gauge after blocking
After row 20: 22.5cm/8.86″ long and 40.5cm/15.94″ wide.
Gauge is not important for this project. However, changes might result in different yardage requirements and finished size.
Notes
- The pattern uses US crochet terminology.
- The wrap is worked in rows back and forth.
- Instructions in square brackets […] are worked as many times as indicated.
- Pattern is a multiple of 48 plus 12 stitches. If you want a narrower wrap, start with 48+12 chains. If you want a wider wrap, start with 144+12 chains, but please be aware that repeats for those sizes were given just for reference.
- You can make this wrap as long as you like by adding or subtracting rows.
- You can also use yarn in different weights, but just know that the width will be different depending on your gauge.
- Ch3 and ch1 at the beginning of the row don’t count as stitches.
- sk next (…) means skip all stitches included in (…) at once.
- The stitch chart is included in the ad-free printable PDF here on ETSY or here on Ravelry.
Stitches & abbreviations (US terms)
- ch(s) – chain(s) stitch
- st(s) – stitch(es)
- sc – single crochet
- BLsc – back loop only single crochet
- dc – double crochet
- yo – yarn over
- dc2tog (double crochet 2 together) – [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] twice, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
- dc3tog (double crochet 3 together) – [yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops] three times, yo, pull through all 4 loops on hook.
- dc2*tog – yo, insert hook in indicated st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, skip one st and insert hook in next st, yo, draw up a loop, yo, pull through 2 loops, yo, pull through all 3 loops on hook.
Pattern
Medium (narrower, wider)
With yarn B
Ch108 (ch60, ch156)
Row 1: dc3tog in 4th, 5th and 6th ch from hook, dc in next 49 (25, 73)sts, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) in next st, dc in next 49 (25, 73)sts, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.
Row 2: ch1 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), sc in first st, BLsc until ch-3 sp, 4scs over ch-3 sp, BLsc until one st remains, sc in last st. Turn.
With yarn A
Row 3: ch3 (doesn’t count as a st here and throughout), dc3tog in first 3sts, dc in next 51 (27, 75)sts, ch3, dc in next 51 (27, 75)sts, dc3tog in last 3 sts. Turn.
Repeat row 2
With yarn B
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Row 7: ch1, sc in every st across. Turn.
If you tend to make your chains tight, work ch3 instead of ch2 and ch2 instead of ch1 in the following rows 8-11.
Row 8: ch3, dc3tog in first 3sts, ch1, [dc2tog in next 3sts, ch2] rep 16 (8, 24) times in total, sk next st, dc in next 2sts, ch3, dc in next 2sts, sk next st, [ch2, dc2tog in next 3sts] rep until 3sts remain, ch1, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.
In this row you should have 32 (16, 48) dc2*tog stitches in total.
Row 9: ch3, dc3tog in first 3sts, [ch2, dc2tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep to last ch-2 sp before 2dcs, ch2, dc2tog – first leg over ch-2 sp, sk next dc and second leg in next dc, ch1, (2dc, ch3, 2dc) over ch-3 sp, ch1, dc2tog – first leg in first dc, sk next dc and second leg over ch-2 sp, [ch2, dc2tog – first leg in the same ch-2 sp, sk next st, and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until last ch-2 sp, ch2, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.
In this row you should have 32 (16, 48) dc2*tog stitches in total.
Row 10: ch3, dc2tog – first leg in first st and second leg over ch-2 sp, dc in next st (in dc2tog), [ch2, dc2tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until ch-1 sp (the second leg of the last dc2tog over ch-1 sp), ch1, dc in next dc, ch1, sk next dc, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) over ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next dc, dc in next dc, ch1, dc2tog – first leg over ch-1 sp, sk next st and second leg in next ch-2 sp, [ch2, dc2tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until second to last ch-2 sp, ch2, dc in next st (in last dc2tog), dc2tog in next 2sts – first leg over ch-2 sp and second in last st. Turn.
In this row you should have 30 (14, 46) dc2*tog stitches in total.
Row 11: ch3, dc3tog (third leg over ch-2 sp), ch1, [dc2tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp, ch2] rep until last ch-2 sp before ch-3 sp, dc2tog – first leg in the same ch-2 sp, sk next st and second leg in next ch-1 sp, ch2, dc2tog – first leg in next dc, sk ch-1 sp and second leg in next dc, ch2, sk next dc, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) over ch-3 sp, ch2, sk next dc, dc2tog – first leg in next dc, sk ch-1 sp and second leg in next dc, ch2, dc2tog – first leg over ch-1 sp, sk next st and second leg in next ch-2 sp, [ch2, dc2tog – first leg in first ch-2 sp, sk next st and the second leg in the next ch-2 sp] rep until last ch-2 sp, ch1, dc3tog – first leg over ch-2 sp, second and third leg in next 2sts. Turn.
In this row you should have 32 (16, 48) dc2*tog stitches in total.
Rows 12 – 17: Repeat rows 9 – 11
Rows 18 – 19: Repeat rows 9 – 10
Row 20: ch1, sc in first st and every st across: 1sc over ch-1 sp, 2sc over ch-2 sp and 4 sc over ch-3 sp. Turn.
With yarn C
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn C
Repeat row 7
Repeat rows 8 – 20 one time
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2 five times.
With yarn B
Repeat row 7
Row 50: ch3, dc3tog in first 3sts, ch1, sk next st, [dc in next 3sts, ch1, sk next 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in next st, ch1, sk next 2sts] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, dc in next 2sts, ch3, dc in next 2sts, [ch1, sk next 2sts, (dc, ch3, dc) in next st, ch1, sk next 2sts, dc in next 3sts] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, ch1, sk next st, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.
Row 51: ch3, dc3tog in next 3sts, dc in next dc, [ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp and dc), 7dcs over ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp, dc), dc in next dc] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) in next ch-3 sp, dc in next dc, [ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp and dc), 7dcs over ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next (dc, ch-1 sp, dc), dc in next dc] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.
Row 52: ch3, dc3tog in next 3sts, ch1, sk next 2dcs, dc in next 3dcs, ch1, sk next (2dcs and ch-1 sp), (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc, [ch1, sk next (ch-1 sp and 2dcs), dc in next 3dcs, ch1, sk next (2dcs and ch-1 sp), (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc] rep 5 (2, 8) times in total, ch1, sk next 2dcs, (2dcs, ch3, 2dcs) in next ch-3 sp, ch1, sk next 2 dcs, (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc, ch1, sk next (ch-1 sp and 2dcs), dc in next 3dcs, [ch1, sk next (2dcs and ch-1 sp), (dc, ch3, dc) in next dc, ch1, sk next (ch-1 sp and 2dcs), dc in next 3dcs] rep 5 (2, 8) times in total, ch1, sk next 2dcs, dc3tog in last 3sts. Turn.
Repeat rows 51 – 52 eight more times
Repeat row 51
Row 70: ch1, sc in first st, [sc in next st, sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, sc in next 5dcs, sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, sc in next 3dcs, 4scs in next ch-3 sp, sc in next 3dcs, [sc in next ch-1 sp, sk next dc, sc in next 5dcs, sk next dc, sc in next ch-1 sp, sc in next st] rep 6 (3, 9) times in total, sc in last st. Turn.
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn B
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn B
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Repeat rows 7 – 8
Repeat rows 9 – 11 two times
Repeat row 9
Repeat row 20
With yarn C
Repeat rows 3 – 2 six times
With yarn A
Repeat row 7
Repeat row 50
Repeat rows 51 – 52 five times
Repeat row 51
Repeat row 70
With yarn B
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn B
Repeat rows 7 – 8
Repeat rows 9 – 11 three times
Repeat rows 9 – 10
Repeat row 20
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn C
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn C
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn A
Repeat rows 3 – 2
With yarn C
Repeat rows 3 – 2
Repeat row 7
Repeat row 50
Repeat rows 51 – 52 three times
Repeat row 51
Repeat row 70
Repeat rows 3 – 2 one time
Fasten off yarn, weave in all ends and block your wrap.
If you have any suggestions or have found any mistakes, please feel free to email me at mycrochetory@gmail.com.
Stuck on a lace row, or want to show off your finished wrap? Come say hi in my Facebook Group or Ravelry Group, where crocheters help each other every day.
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More free crochet wrap patterns
Love long wraps? Here are four more free wrap patterns, each with a totally different shape.
- Spring Solstice Wrap. Made with the same DROPS Alpaca as Arrow! This trapezoid wrap mixes mesh lace with eyelet stripes in two colors.
- Monochrome Bias Wrap. Want to try mosaic crochet? This wrap is worked on the bias, with a bold three-color mosaic section in the middle.
- Kalinda Wrap. Here the stripes turn into soft waves. It’s made with one gradient yarn cake, so the colors change all by themselves.
- Bandos Wrap. Prefer something simple? Bandos is made from three moss stitch triangles that you sew together, with tassels if you like.
More crochet chevron patterns
If the arrow made you fall for V shapes, these chevron patterns are next on your list.
- Havra Wrap. This one has big diagonal chevrons in ombre yarn, and it’s a great pick for adventurous beginners.
- Havra Infinity Scarf. The same chevron idea, but in a loop! It has a lace chevron in six striped colors.
- Tonnta Lightweight Scarf. Love lace weight yarn? Tonnta turns chevrons into light, wavy lace on a long scarf.
Looking for more? Browse all my free crochet shawl patterns.
So, which three colors are you picking for your arrow? Tell me in the comments! And if a row gives you trouble, ask me there too, so the next person with the same question finds the answer right away.
I love this pattern! It is so striking. Thanks for sharing.